TRAGEDY IN KUMAUN AT MALIPA 

 On The Route To  Manasarovar

A serious tragedy effected the trekkers and villagers in the Byans Valley of the Eastern Kumaon.

Erroneous descriptions of the trekking route has appeared in the newspapers (Times of India, Bombay edition, 21st August 1998). The pilgrim route is described as “death-defying”, ‘5 km of rock climbing en route”, “only one person can walk at a time” and many things were written which is far from truth. If pilgrim had huge blisters on feet it shows his or her unpreparedness and  does not make the track bad !  In sensationalising  the difficulties of the route thus, the true nature of the terrain is lost. The route is tiresome but not as dangerous as made out to be.

The trek from Dharchula to Lipu Lekh pass is used for a Century at least. There was an attempt to make it motorable also. It is a village to village track, which is used regularly. These tracks are at least 3 feet wide. Only at certain sections, due to landslides it may be narrow. Now the route from Dharchula till Narayan Ashram is jeepable. Ahead you walk on flattish ground traversing far above the Kali river. From Jipti a steep descent leads to banks of the river and then at varying levels  it continues above the Kali river. From Malipa one reaches village  of Budhi and Garbyang. Ahead Kuthi river (flowing from North)  joins the Kali and across the bridge is the village of Gunji. Route gets little wilder ahead as you reach Kalapani, the last defence outpost on the Indian side. From here the track climb to  Lipu Lekh pass which of course involves the difficulties of snow and height. The route is very scenic and Nepal is always across the Kali river, which forms the border.

The area is situated on a geological fault and is known to be prone to landslides. Village of Garbyang (which is little ahead of Malipa) was situated on a geological fault. Over the years it was sinking  and finally the village had to be moved to a different location. Due to the steep gorge formed by the Kali river the track passes through a narrow  gorge but it is always quite broad and maintained. The pilgrim Party had camped at Malipa at the only place available there and this place was regularly in use. So the tragedy that stuck them was freak and due to natural forces.

LESSONS TO BE LEANS FROM THE TRAGEDY (and suggestions for future)

(1)  Over the years we have not shown enough respect for nature and that is the main reason why such a tragedy occurred. Many trees have been felled and no attempt was made to look after the fragile soil structures. We do not listen to  Sunderlal Bahuguna and the other environmentalist like him but the scientific evidence that they talk about  has to be respected. If something is not done these areas and the areas of the Garhwal will continue to take revenge and such tragedies will occur more and more. The other tragedies at Rudraprayag in the Garhwal is also similar in nature and a grim reminder.

(2) A pilgrim, Ms. Parul V. Shah talked to her family from Dharchula and a post card arrived from her later. She stated that it  was raining heavily in the area and expressed doubts as to how the party can proceed at all. As a trekker  I can mention that best of parties would have not moved (generally no trekkers visit the Kumaon and the Garhwal in rains). But here a “schedule” had to be kept. So the pilgrims were made to proceed despite inclement weather. This was also a total insult to the prevailing natural situation. Weather and rains do not listen to Government Tour Schedules and  it is almost suicidal to proceed in such weather. But that’s what  was done and everyone paid a price.  Extra days  should be allowed to wait for weather and in case of such heavy rains –the group should be sent back as it was done about the later parties –but after a grim tragedy.          

(3) Preparations for a  quick and proper rescue should be made well in advance, particularly when so many untrained pilgrims are regularly passing through the area. I am sure our army and ITBP is geared to look after any tragedy, provided proper directions were given and they were stationed at right spots en route. Like all disaster management first few hours or the first day is the most important and the help should arrive in hours, not after days as in this case.

(4) The Manasarovar Pilgrimage is organised in June to August season as the Lipu Lekh pass will have less snow during  these months, allowing for an easier crossing. But the walk through the Kumaon hills on the  Indian side is dangerous as shown by the tragedy. There are several alternate routes and passes available from Indian side to cross to Tibet and visit Manasarovar. For example Shipki la (pass) in the Kinnaur (Himachal Pradesh) is easier to cross over to Tibet and is situated in dry area . From Ladakh too one can almost drive to Tibet via Demchok. These routes should be opened and  untrained pilgrims should be taken for pilgrimage from there. 

HARISH KAPADIA