Small Himalayan Walks

“Above all, do not lose your desire to walk: every day I walk myself into a state of well-being and walk away from illness; I have walked myself into my best thoughts. Thus if one just keeps on walking, everything will be all right.”

Kierkegaard
True to the above quote walking is the best exercises for health in all aspects. And what better than a walk in the nature, in the wild or in the mountains. There is fresh air which adds to the sense of well being and allows mind to relax in the wilderness. India offers many walks which can be enjoyed from easy outings to long mountain trips. Here are some suggestions out of plethora of walks that are available.

1. Deoria Tal to Tungnath (Garhwal)
The Himalayan lakes have a charm of their own. One such lake is Deoria Tal near Ukimath, a temple town near Kedarnath. The climb to the lake at first is steep, climbing almost 450 m in about three hours. But the reward is attractive. A lovely lake surrounded by forest of pines and green grass. In evening you can see the Himalayan peaks reflecting in its calm waters. The sight you will never forget is of moonlight reflecting in the lake.

From Deoria tal a forest trail starts from behind the rest house going towards Tungnath. The ‘chhe phuti’ (six foot wide) trail offers one the finest forest walks in Garhwal. After an initial small climb it is fairly straight walk. As all along it is under a canopy of forest walking in the afternoon is pleasant. Only drawback is that there is no water available en route and so be prepared with water bottles full and a pack lunch. After about 8 kilometres one reaches a vast bugyal- one of the many grazing grounds for which Garhwal is well known. This the vast grassy slopes surrounded by forest where shepherds camp for months. A similar terrain continues the next day till you reach a small depression in the ridge. From here the trail descends in zigzags through forest to Pingle Pani river. An open ground near the bridge is inviting to camp, if you want to do the trek very leisurely.

From the bridge it is constant but gentle climb to Bhujgyal which is on the main trail from Chopta to Tungnath. Tungnath is three km up from here. The temple is ancient and when the clouds clear you will see Chaukhamba looming on the horizon. Many peaks of the Gangotri glacier fills the horizon. With green surroundings and temple bells ringing in the distance it is magical.

If it is very clear it will be rewarding to climb to Chandrashilla from where peaks on the eastern horizon like Nanda Devi is seen. The return to civilisation is fast with a four km trail leading to Chopta where transport is available.

2. Pachmarhi (Central India)
The British army captain Captain James Forsythe roamed the hills of Central India in 1857. He reached a plateau, and set up a small station there for the British soldiers to rest. Today this is an important hill station of Pachmarhi, which remains one of the finest destination for those who love to walk the outdoors.

Pachmarhi has temperate climate in summers and cold weather in winters. Situated amidst thick forest, it offers very comfortable facilities. Thus one can walk hard during the day and rest well at night. The Indian Army has established a music training school here so it will not be too uncommon to hear sounds of a bugle or bagpipes while walking. There are two walks , aptly named as ‘Chhota Chakkar’ and ‘Bada Chakker” as they go round and are walks that would please many. In keeping with popularity of marathon running now a days, these Chakkars are best for competition. The air strip is in centre of the plateau but not many aircrafts have landed here. A small hill nearby has the Twynam Memorial, erected by a doting father in memory of his martyred son in World War II. The Dhupgarh ‘Foot hill’ is five kilometres from the airstrip., This is the highest point of the Satpuras. A wide vista of Central India during the day and a grand sunset in the evening are viewed from there.

There are many other walks at Pachmarhi. Reechh Gad, a cave where bears (Reechh) supposed to roam. The area is lined up with some magnificent rock formations and a walk through these canyons it is a experience to cherish. There are waterfalls down in the valley which calls you. The best amongst them is the Apasara Fall, a walk of about six km and it is way down into the valley. It is stunning waterfall and depending on the season you go its force will vary. But like many walks in Pachmarhi, the climb up to plateau comes at the end! So it is a tired but satisfied walker who has to climb up to the plateau.

3. Sandakhphu (Darjeeling-Sikkim)
Someone called it the best walk in the Darjeeling area. How true! The long Singalila ridge divides India and Nepal. One can climb up to Tonglu on the ridge either by transport or by climbing from Mane Bhanjang. As you proceed the beauty of the ridge reveals itself. The high peaks like Makalu, Jannu and the tallest of them Everest are on the west. Though they are at a distance their sheer height and rise from the plains of Nepal is stunning. Half way on the walk you pass ‘Kala Pokhri lake’. A lake which has dark water and is worshipped by the locals. With prayer flags surrounding the lake it is enchanting. Nepal is few steps across in the west. You see the complete difference between the Hindu culture of Nepal and the Buddhist monasteries of Sikkim, both living together peacefully for centuries. Walking north on the ridge you pass Garibas Bikhey Bhanjang and reach Sandakhpu. To the north stands Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world.

While waking in April you will be surrounded by rhododendron plants. It is prominent flower of Sikkim and blooms in various colours and fragrance. Butterflies are in abundance on the ridge. Continue the walk past Sandakhphu to Phalut which is the highest point on Singalila ridge.
One can return by a different route. Descend to the valley by walking down a wide forest trail from to Gorkhay, a steep descent. There are quaint villages and you will end up playing a game of carom board with locals. Small restaurants serve excellent momoes and the local drink Tomba. It is most refreshing and healthy drink made of fermented barley to which hot water is added to make a kind of local beer. This walk offers beauty, reasonable places to stay en route and local fervour. What more does want on a walk!

4. Amboli-Pargad (The Sahyadris- Western Ghats)
The Sahyadris range is part of the Western Ghats. It is unique with steep rock pinnacles, historical forts and several lakes. The southernmost tail in the rage starts at Amboli. It is a small hill station which connected by road from Sawantwadi on the Mumbai-Goa highway. The place is surrounded by thick forest and some of the best walks can be enjoyed here.

Walk to the old palace a few kilometres away with old British graves nearby. Though in ruins it stands in majesty and one can imagine what glory it must have enjoyed once. The sunset from this walk is unique. You are walking on the western edge of the Ghats and far in the distance the sun sets over the Arabian Sea. In morning one can walk few kilometres to Mahadev to enjoy the view of Mansantosh Gad fort. In fact more enterprising walkers can visit Narayan Gad fort which will take about three hours one way. Kavle sad cliff is also worth four kilometre walk as a huge cave beneath the cliff in inviting. A steep descent will lead you the cave. Evening can be usefully spent by going to a tower, named ‘Parikshit’, erected by the forest department on the upper plateau. This is in Bison Sanctuary and one can see the animal if lucky, and escape its wrath if more lucky! But the forest is in pristine state to be enjoyed.
For a long walk one can visit Par Gad fort, the southernmost fort of the Sahyadri range. Walk to Chokul (or take an auto). From here a proper trail takes you to village Visapur. Pargad is three kilometres away. The fort played an important role of guarding the Ram ghat which leads down to the boundaries of Goa. The ancient rocky path and traditional temple on the fort make the walk worthwhile.

5. Chiltha Devi (Kumaun)
Kumaunis worship Nanda Devi peaks. The peak towers over the region and stops cold wintery winds from Tibet from ruining the land with frost. They build temples to the Goddess on mountain ridges from where these twin peaks are seen. One such beautiful temple is built on the Chiltha ridge, near Bageshwar going past Almora in Uttarakhand.

From Sipu village, which can be reached by road, walk on a well marked forest trail to top of the ridge. The lovely temple of Chiltha Devi is walk away to the south. It is small temple with well made porch and ground around offers grand setting. Just as peaks are offering a grand panorama to the north, the south offers the view of the Kumauni valleys stretching to distant horizon. An evening can be spent here counting lights in villages below.

A little above the temple, on an adjoining hill, walk up to another temple. This temple is facing the peaks of Nanda Devi. It is a view for Gods! Peaks like Devtoli, Maiktoli, Panwali Dhar and others are seen. The temple is surrounded by several bells, offered by devotees. With bells rings in wind to awaken the Goddess ‘to bless them.

There are small huts to stay below the Chiltha temple. Then traverse on the ridge towards Brijlinga Dhar. In late March or April this ridge will be on fire with rhododendrons flowers. In profusion of colours of these flowers, peaks like Nanda Kot and grand view of peaks surrounding the Pindari glacier are seen. Here too there is a small stone shelter should you wish to sty. It will be easy to walk down to Sipu village where home stays are available.

On such walk hospitality of the local villagers is enjoyed. They are generous and helpful. Something that city folks have forgotten.