FIRST FORTY YEARS OF H.M.I., DARJEELING 

(1994)

      We sat around a roaring campfire. Raymond Lambert was visiting Sikkim as a special guest of Tensing Norgay. And we, the students of the basic training course of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), were entertaining the guests in exchange for superb Swiss whisky. The Indian pre-Everest expedition was also there. Students, leading mountaineers of India and Sherpas mingled, talking in the ambience of food and fun. As the fire turned to embers, the night passed into memory. But the bonds of friendship forged that evening way back in 1964 have lasted me a lifetime.

    This would probably be the experience of many ex-students of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI). The training for the Basic and Advance courses used to last for about 35 days each and included lectures on several aspects of mountain-eering, trekking to the base camp and learning various skills. The course was rounded off by what was (and still is) called the ‘Graduation Ceremony’. A specially invited guest presents a badge and a certificate to successful students. The HMI has in recent times introduced Adventure courses for young persons between the ages of 12 and 17 years.

    To me, the HMI symbolised meeting famous Sherpas, hearing their stories and being exposed to the world of mountains in spirit. It meant more than the training alone. Like the question of what to do after climbing Everest, it was important for us to know what to do after completing the course at HMI.

    When Tensing Norgay and Hillary climbed Everest in 1953, the whole of India was in raptures. To commemorate that historical event, India’s Prime Minister at that time, Jawaharlal Nehru, agreed to a suggestion to form an institution to train and guide those interested in mountaineering. Nehru realised the great potential of the Himalaya as a training ground for Indian youth to become self-reliant, disciplined and courageous citizens. ‘There will be no lack of adventures of the mind and body for those who are prepared to venture into uncharted seas and climb unknown peaks’, he said.

    Arnold Glatthard, Principal of the Swiss Mountaineering School then visited Darjeeling. He and Tensing Norgay did a complete recce of the area, and Darjeeling which was the home of the Sherpas, became the home of the HMI. The Institute was situated on the western spur of Darjeeling, commanding a panoramic view of the Kangchenjunga and its famous range. Dzongri in Sikkim was selected as the training ground. Nandu Jayal, one of the foremost mountaineers of that time became the first Principal and Tensing Norgay was the first Director of Field Training. Jayal and Norgay alongwith six experienced Sherpas were sent to Switzerland for training, and by the winter of 1954, HMI was ready to receive its first students. The list of the first Sherpa instructors of the HMI included veterans like Ang Tharkay, Topgay, Gyalzen, Ang Temba and Da Namgyal. The youngest of the lot was Nawang Gombu. They were the living legends of the contemporary Himalayan mountaineering in the 40s, 50s and upto the 60s. Ang Temba and Da Namgyal had nearly reached the Everest summit in 1953. Gyalzen, too, had climbed several peaks. That band of Sherpas shared their experience with us. Their mere presence and chatter was encouragement enough. They were a major attraction of the course. We imbibed their experience, their love for the mountains and the foundations of a life-long passion for climbing were laid.

    Tensing Norgay remained the most powerful influence on HMI for many years. Despite international recognition after climbing Everest he remained a simple Sherpa at heart. He accompanied most of the courses with his Tibetan dogs and took a keen interest in the training programmes. He was the rallying point of the Sherpa community which looked upon him as its leader. It may perhaps be true that without Tensing the HMI may not have had a flying start.

    At present, the Institute basically carries on the same type of courses, in the same area as it did when it began. The Advance course includes the climb of one high peak (around 6000 m) as part of the syllabus. The HMI has a well-stocked library and a museum and the course fees are highly subsidised by the government.

    However, it is always the men who make an institution. Behind these facts and figures, the HMI has had some famous names on its rolls, apart from the great Tensing who acted as its father figure till his death. Nawang Gombu, his successor, had climbed Everest twice and was considered worthy of reverence. I cherish the talks I had with Sherpa Wangdi during my course way back in 1964.

    The HMI instructors and the Sherpas in general have suffered many untimely deaths on the ranges. Ang Kami was the youngest person to have climbed Everest in 1965. He was a member of my expedition to Bethartoli Himal in 1970. He was charming and a well-loved instructor at the HMI. In a camp high up on the mountain, we discussed many aspects of Darjeeling, the HMI and Sherpa life. Little did I know that the next morning he would be killed in an avalanche. The entire Sherpa community was plunged in sadness. It was a terrible jolt to the HMI. Earlier on, its first Principal, Nandu Jayal having been delayed on his way to Cho Oyu, double-marched to catch up with the main team. He fell victim to pulmonary oedema. Not much was known about this condition in the 50s. Other times, other tragedies. Phu Dorje, another instructor, slipped on Nanda Devi East and died instantly. In 1993, Lopsang, one of the most charming personalities of the HMI was killed on Everest. Of course, many senior and well-known Sherpas like Pasang Temba, Nawang Phenjo and Chewang Tashi led exciting long lives and perished due to old age.

    The HMI continues to thrive. Apart from Nawang Gombu, the present Director of Field Training, there are two deputies, Dorjee Lhatoo and Nima Tashi. Both have excellent climbing records and a high calibre of technical expertise. Lhatoo, an Everester, keeps himself abreast of the latest developments in his field. He has also climbed Chomolhari, Nanda Devi and other peaks. His regular contacts with the world climbing scene ensure that the HMI is kept updated. Of the present day younger instructors, HMI can boast of Pasang Namgyal, Nima Norbu amongst others to keep the HMI flag flying high, fluttering proudly.

    Apart from the Sherpas, there is a Principal of the Institute, who looks after the administration, finance and the day-to-day functioning. Some well-known personalities have occupied this chair: Col. B.S. Jaswal, Col. N. Kumar, Brig. D.K. Khullar, Col. Amit Roy and Col. Ajit Dutt. All of them have contributed to the growth of the Institute in large measure. The present Principal, Col. H.S. Chauhan, has been guiding the Institute for the past three years.

    No worthwhile institute can exist without its share of criticism. There are those who believe that the HMI needs to revise its courses and update the training schedule regularly. What was good enough four decades ago may not be useful for the future. Many Sherpas who retired after long years of service to the HMI (Da Namgyal and Gyalzen for example) were treated as per normal government rules. They were reduced to selling sweaters in the streets of Darjeeling to make both ends meet. The traditional role of Sherpas as instructors is now changing and their welfare and needs must be borne in mind if the HMI is to continue to draw upon their expertise. These are the views of well-meaning members whose intentions are to see that the Institute remains what it is: the best.

    Overall, the HMI has played a wide role in developing the entire Indian climbing scene. It sends out instructors all over the country to train young men and women in rock climbing in places near their homes. The first and the longest such series of courses were held around Bombay and many climbers have benefited enormously from their interaction with the Sherpa instructors. The HMI instructors have participated in various national and international events and the Institute has held mountaineering conferences. Apart from this, millions of tourists have visited the place and its museum, gained some knowledge about the Himalaya through it. The interest evoked is often an abiding one. The HMI continues to fulfil its famous motto, ‘May (You) Climb From Peak To Peak’.

    Life, they say, begins at forty. All the best, then, to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, with its experience, maturity and a young generation of instructors to add to the spice.