Jagdish Chandulal Nanavati

(1929-2011)

He climbed no high peaks, for that matter, not even a small peak. He did not explore major ranges or undertake heroic adventures. But still, in the world of mountaineering, he became a legend and a Guru to many of us, including me certainly. This was Jagdish Chandulal Nanavati, in short JCN to all of us.
His standards were lofty and many of us found it difficult to match his expectations. He would guide us and if we failed, without any demonstration of anger, he would guide us forward again. This exactness manifested in the major work of his life – as someone put it aptly- he was ‘the inquisitor of mountains from Mumbai’. He had a rare gift of studying a mountain through maps, photos and descriptions. He did not need to go there. Studying maps, drawings and observations gave him enormous pleasure and through his incisive mind, he solved many problems. By studying a mountain and details of its ascent, he could conclude whether it had been truly climbed or whether climbers had made a mistake. He must have disproved ascent claims of more than about 20 peaks and in a few cases, proved that peaks had been climbed when the climbers were not sure. It was not that he forced his view as the last word about the claim. He would prove it with detailed studies and present it with logic, almost like a detective. In most cases climbers disagreed with his conclusions – after all, who wants to accept that their claim of climbing a peak is false. So through word after word, letter after letter and proof after proof he would make them understand their folly and if they still refused, he would stand by his finding. Later as the Ombudsman of the Himalayan Club, he decided without favour or fear that the Club sponsored expedition to Nilkanth had failed to reach the summit.

Whenever there was a question like this to be looked into, he became a man possessed and would pace in his garden till late, sit on his table burning the midnight oil pouring over maps and old articles. Much correspondence followed with hours of talking on phone to gather authentic information. He used all his time, knowledge and talent to sort out truth from falsehood. And he would not rest till the problem was solved. What was said about Beethoven was also true for JCN; ‘Talent is what a man possesses, Genius is what possesses a man!’

It is hard to go into details of expeditions he studied. However, some of the well-known peaks and claims of ascents that he studied included Nilkanth, Nyegi Kangsang, Kokthang, Matri, Sudarshan Parvat … the list is endless. In the case of Gya, he later accepted and proved that the ascent was actually made though he had thought otherwise to start with. I learnt of his exactness in 1969 as we returned about 100 feet short of the summit of Tharkot after being carried down by an avalanche. Next morning JCN phoned to say that, ‘it will be appropriate to say that you were 125 feet from the summit and not 100.’ We declared we were 150 feet down – after all, who would want to join issues with JCN!

He completed his mountaineering course at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling in 1958. On his return, he arranged with Brig. Gyan Singh, the Principal of HMI, to send three instructors to Mumbai to conduct Rock Climbing courses for the benefit of city-dwellers. When the Himalayan Club was not interested in sponsoring it, he formed a ‘Mountaineering Committee’, which organised the courses. This small committee was converted into ‘The Climbers Club’. After a decade of running these courses, for which he had explored the places near Mumbai and arranged everything, he fell out with the Club, as they unfairly wanted to pass strictures against an expedition sponsored by them to Bethartoli Himal in 1970. Four climbers died in an avalanche, which was a vis major but the Club wanted to blame the leadership and members. After a year of protracted arguments, he resigned as the President of the club when the Committee published their views. Many members including me also resigned with him.

This resignation was surely an act of God! It was about the same time that the Himalayan Club moved from Kolkata to Mumbai, as there were no volunteers to run it at the former. Soli Mehta asked JCN to take over the reins of the HC. As statistics go, he continued as Hon. Secretary of the Club for 23 years, then as the President for 8 years and finally as President Emeritus. He literally reconstructed the Club from ruins to a pinnacle. He was the face of the club, organised files and finances, his office was used as the HC office and many youngsters were encouraged by him. When Soli Mehta, Hon Editor of the Himalayan Journal, was posted abroad, I remember a handsome JCN walked into my house and requested me to be the Hon Editor. I was a novice and since then till his last days he was helpful and a guiding light for HJ.

He organised local talks and programmes in Mumbai, which attracted youngsters. He also invited famous foreign climbers to speak to youngsters thus encouraging the sport of mountaineering. In 1978, for the Golden Jubilee of the HC, JCN organised a five-day festival at the prestigious Jahangir Art Gallery in a prime area of Mumbai. A photo exhibition was arranged with daily talks by well-known speaker. It was always a packed house and people lined up an hour earlier to gain entry. No wonder as that extravaganza had speakers such as Per Temba Sherpa, Dr Salim Ali, H. C. Sarin, Swami Pranavananda and others. HC has never looked back after that event. This was an announcement to the mountaineering world, (like that of a British Governor General to the British throne during the British Raj); ‘HC is alive, well and rules ok’.

As time went by, HC became stronger and moved to its own premises guided by Dr M S Gill and Tanil Kilachand. But here too JCN played an active role and helped to set it up well. Although he was getting along in years, he found it difficult to let go his many commitments including the HC. It took toll of his health. It was his life’s precious work and it was his Gandhian nature to do it simply and in the best way. The HC needed to change with times to survive in the modern day environment. Sometimes these changes were a point of conflict but he accepted them gracefully and his role as the President Emeritus was an invaluable support to the Club.

JCN had lost his father when he was 12 years old, he was therefore, a self made man. He met his wife Mandakini while in college – he was so much in love and roamed around with her on a motorbike that he failed final exams twice! After their marriage in 1949, she was the balance in his life as her practical wisdom perfectly offset the lofty ideals of JCN. Whenever we had difficulties, we ran to her! She survives him with a family of four children and many grand children.

Early in his life, JCN met Swami Anand, a learned ascetic who lived at Gangotri, who introduced him to the Himalaya, climbing stories and also gave him many of his maps. This was the beginning of a love affair. He trekked in the local hills, the Sahyadris and the Western Ghat. It was also a pioneering effort as the sport was unknown then. Later we enjoyed many trips together and his wit was legendary. He was at home in the hills, whistling, shouting, cycling, full of stories and of full of questions! That was one trait that I could never fully satisfy- he wanted to know everything about everything and this was beyond my knowledge and patience. He was very fond of my son, Lt Nawang Kapadia who died in Kashmir at the young age of 25. JCN got on fabulously with him. On a trek, they always shared a tent and Nawang’s eyes would light up while listening to his stories. They would talk until late night and suddenly JCN would start his loud and famous snores! JCN could never speak of Nawang after his death as tears welled up in his eyes.

I was surprised to learn, after his death, that JCN was an ardent fish collector. He had 40 fish tanks in his compound – a rare thing for he was a Jain – strictly vegetarian and would not even eat garlic and onions. Another love he had was for roses – which he tended in his garden and talked in detail about. He cultivated 100 different varieties of roses, photographed them while listening to music, also his passion. At the same time, he was much involved in social work, running his family school, college and hospital. With his upbringing, he was involved in many activities associated with Gandhian institutions though he knew that these were dying institutions.

After the accident on the Bethartoli Himal in 1970 and the acrimony that followed, he did not venture to the Himalaya till 1982. But when he did return, it was with great pleasure to Kumaun, where we undertook a long trek in two valleys. One could sense in him the exuberance and love for the Himalaya. In 1984 and 1986 with many youngsters, we went to the Ruinsara valley in Garhwal and the Baspa valley in Kinnaur. These trips brought out best in JCN as he spread maps to teach the youngsters, how to walk methodically, taught them camp manners and much more. His wards were taught how to enjoy mountains without bravado, safely and with knowledge. He had a way with youngsters.

Not only youngsters, but also even the Himalaya benefitted from his wisdom, observations and studies. I have a lovely picture of JCN standing to attention watching the Darma river flowing below. You almost get a feeling that it was the Himalaya too, which was standing at attention – and saluting him!

HARISH KAPADIA