A BRIEF HISTORY OF BHUTAN

2014

The invasion and subjugation of Tibet by the Chinese Communist Army was one of the most tragic events of modern times; not only because it resulted in the annihilation  and torment of countless innocent victims, but also because mankind is in eminent danger of losing one of its ancient and most successful cultures. For, whatever its imperfections in terms of modern democracy and inspite of its material poverty, the Tibetan theocratic system seems to have produced a people as content, as tolerant, as courageously independent and as free from cramping taboos as can be found anywhere.  Today, Bhutan is almost the only place where this remarkable culture still thrives on its native soil. Like Tibet itself, this small mountain kingdom has remained beyond the reach of all, but a very few western travelers. Like Tibet, true, it has in the past owed its immunity to foreign influence, largely to the policy of the Government of India to define the political integrity of neighboring states. Unlike Tibet, it is still independent, though how long it will retain this happy position if you would dare to guess. ( Written in 1970).

From the book Two and Two Halves to Bhutan by Peter Steele.

Foreword by Eric Shipton.

In the 8^th century A.D. Bhutan was ruled by many independent Princes and one of the most powerful was the Sindhu Raja who was converted to Buddhism by Padma Sambhava. It is not clear how much fact is behind the story of the Tiger flying to Takstang with the lama on his back, bringing Buddhism to Bhutan. For next 7 centuries, various Tibetan kings crossed the Himalaya to ravage Bhutan’s green valleys.  In 1527 A.D. Dujom Dorjee, a powerful Lama from Ralung of famous Druka monastery and original headquarters of the Red Head Sect of Lamas repulsed repeated invasions from Tibet and become master of the whole country taking the title of Dharma Raja, the first of a line that extended across for next four centuries.  During his reign building of all big Dzongs (forts) was started and Dharma Raja was spiritual head of the country that might wholly devote himself to the interest of religion. He appointed a regent for temporarily affairs called Deb Raja.

Two Portuguese Jesuist Fathers Cacella and Cabrel started from Bengal in 1627 to enter Bhutan and they were perhaps the first Europeans to penetrate here.  They gave first accurate report. Their journey was difficult and they were twice robbed and imprisoned before meeting the king. Their latter must have been second Dharma Raja, successor to Dujom Dorjee,  the king and the grand lama. The King’s home in peaceful time was at Ralung near Gyantse but the when the Jesuist met him he was touring the mountains of Bhutan. Both Fathers spent three months traveling with the king and when they suggested leaving to go the Tibet to join another priest, called Andrade and at Tsaparang. To encourage Jeusist to stay, the king a scholar who had enjoyed their company gave them leave to preach Christianity and promise to build a house and a church at Paro. But the priest left Bhutan to visit the king of Shigatse.  Utsang was where Cacella died in 1660. Cabrel recrossed the Himalaya to Nepal and continued down to India. For 100 years nothing was heard about Bhutan until 1772 when Deab Judhur laid claims to Cooch-Bihar and swept down on it from hills and carried off the Raja. The East India Company controlled the British interests and Warren Hastings sent Governor Captain Jones with the forces of troops to suppress the Bhutanese. Jones captured Dalimkotta Duar, but he died of malaria. which was prevalent in the Himalayan foothills. The Duars or Dwors in Bengal and Assam. This narrow strip of land, south of Bhutan is 10-20 miles wide and 250 miles long and is entered by 18 passes or duars (doors)  from the hills. 11 are adjacent to Bhutan, 7 in Assam.

The Deab Judhur had made himself unpopular for building a Dzong and he had forced people to work for it. While he was out of the country at Buxa Duar fighting Captain Jones, a Lama’s party tried to take over the Government and Deab was compelled to take shelter in a Dzong.  The Bhutanese asked regent of Shigatse in Tibet to intervene in their favour as mediator with East India Company. His letter to Warren Hastings is a striking example of oriental diplomacy carrying a threat shrouded in meek and spiritual terms. Warren Hastings commissioned George Bogle in 1774 as an representative  of the company to make a treaty of peace with Bhutan and to negotiate opening of trade route to Tibet. Bogle set out in company of  Dr. Hamilton and carried large supplies of potatoes which he planted at all halting places and this was the first introduction of the plant throughout Bhutan. Bogle had discussions with Deab Raja and reported them to Governor General. However Europeans would not be allowed to travel in Bhutan although Hindu and Muslim merchants might do so and Bhutanese were given permission to attend Annual Trade Fair at Raangpur and to visit Calcutta. Bogle was detained in Bhutan his passport to enter Bhutan was refused by Tashi Lama, on order from Chinese Emperor.  Bogle travelled from Phari to Tashi Lungpo to meet the head lama and they became such good friends that Bogle was entrusted with money to built temple on the Ganges. Dr. Hamilton then led two missions to Bhutan, the first in 1775 to examine a border dispute, which he decided in favour of Bhutan and second after two years to congratulate the Deab Raja on his succession.

 In 1783, Captain Samuel Turner was sent to Tibet by Warren Hastings with Dr. Saunders and Lt. Davis to congratulate the reincarnation of Tashi Lama and to confirm Chinese relations with Tibet. He caught up in a rebellion when Deab Raja’s troops using bows and arrows located and captured Wangdi Phobrang  Dzong, whose Governor called Zimpong was following the instruction. Again a period of silence reigns over history of Bhutan lasting more than 50 years, during which Nepalese invaded Tibet in 1792 but were driven back. In 1838, Captain Pemberton, Dr. Griffith and 25 Assam Police crossed Bhutan from east to west finding the country in a state of continual anarchy.  Finally there were several Bhutanese who were constantly aggressive along the Indian frontier. Many incidences occurred leading to Ashley Eden’s mission in 1864. Eden met constant obstacles and interruptions and Bhutan Assembly with audacious insolence compelled him to sign the restitution of Assam Duars and enforced their demands by stopping supplies to his missions. To punish the Bhutanese for the ill treatment of Eden’s mission, Britain declared war, annexed the duars, and demanded compensation of Rs. 50,000 annually. After a battle at Devangiri some guns and prisoners fell into the hands of Tongsa Penelonp and two British soldiers were kept there for a short period. 

The Bhutan Duars War took place in 1865 and 20 years later, the last civil war in Bhutan was fought. Jigme Namgyal, the Trongsa Penelop  joined forces with Paro Penelop to squash uprising of the Thimpu and Punaka Dzong Penelops. In 1897 earthquake destroyed Punaka Dzong and with it went much recorded history of Bhutan. The Trongsa Penelop accompanied the 1904 Younghusband expedition to Lhasa as a mediator and in return for his services was awarded the ‘Order of Knight Commander of Indian Empire’.  John Cloud-white travelled to Bhutan to present the order of behalf of Kind Edward VII of England.

Two years later in 1907, White  again went to Bhutan and with much gifts attended the installation of the  Gyalpo or the King, which came about on the  following day.  The Dharma Raja had died and no incarnation was found and the Deab Raja held both offices but he was a recluse following a spiritual life and consequently power fell into the hands of strong men of the country, the Tongsa Penelop. Lama’s officials and laymen unanimously voted to abolish 400-year-old offices of Deab and Dharma Raja and proclaim Ugyen Wangchuk, the first Gyalpo and declared the title hereditary. Thus he was the first king.  Britain signed a treaty in 1910 agreeing not to interfere in the internal administration of Bhutan who in turn agreed to be guided by advisor of Britain in the external relations and the Gyalpo visited Delhi for Darbar of King George V.

Sir Ugyen Wangchuk died in 1926 and was succeeded by Jigme Wangchuk who married two sisters. Bhutan’s doors during this time remained tight shut for outside world and only a few foreigners entered the country.  A botanist Bailey travelled in west and central Bhutan in 1924 and found some rare Himalayan poppies. Two more botanists, Sheriff and Ludlo made extensive journeys in every corner of Bhutan. In 1933 they crossed from west to east and in 1934 and 1936 they collected plants from the east and crossed into Tibet. They made two plant-collecting expeditions soon after the war mainly in eastern Bhutan. Sheriff and Ludlo knew Bhutan as no foreigner had ever done before.

In 1952 Jigme Dorjee Wangchuk was made Gyalpo of Bhutan. Dorjee who had been Deab Penlop under king’s father and whose son Jigme Dorjee succeeded him as the Prime Minister.  Since assassination of Jigme Dorjee in 1964,  the king now rules the country with the help of national assembly.

Later History

Bhutan was a closed kingdom in times of father of the present King (King is 47 years now with 4 wives) That early King had closed doors to all visitors,  specially to keep the Assamese traders entering and keeping the Bhutanese culture alive. But there was also contact with the Chinese and that border they could not keep it closed for sure as it was mountainous. With the  ‘Younghusband Expedition 1904’ Bhutan was in trouble. As the expedition passed through Chumbi valley, immediate west of Chomolahri peak, many Tibetans came running into Bhutan and settled here permanently. That changed things here a lot. Then after the opening of Nepal many Nepalese came to Bhutan and settled in foothills and there were violent clashes as Bhutanese tried to push them out and there was retaliation from Nepal to Bhutanese minority in Nepal too.

The British had already established a presence here and there was much development projects handled by Indian officials. Indo-Bhutanese Treaty of Friendship and co-operation was signed in 1949 which gave full access to Indians to Bhutan and vice versa.

Then came 1962 Indo-China war that changed everything for Bhutan.  Dalai Lama wanted to enter from Bhutan from Tibet when running from the Chinese in 1959 but the King refused as he was naturally scared of the Chinese army coming to the Kingdom. (Dalai Lama has since not visited Bhutan ever- even to keep the Chinese happy!) It was wise decision as Chinese may have taken over entire Bhutan for good,  — taking that as ruse. So Dalai Lama entered from far eastern corner of Bhutan-Arunachal Border at Khinzemane and area held by India but within few kilometres of Bhutan borders. Chinese did take this with much offence and the King was pressurised to allow the Chinese troops from Bhutan to invade India. He had to refuse.

During the war Indian troops were on the Thagla Ridge which Bhutan claimed as theirs and protested mildly. Many injured and running Indian soldiers came down to safety and plains through Bhutan.

In 1963 Nehru visited Bhutan and now the fearful King (of the Chinese) signed a comprehensive treaty with India and almost everything here since then is linked to India, India also pours in lots of money, army, road constructions and King almost cannot do much political changes with Indian approval. His defence and Foreign affairs are controlled by India, Bhutan has only 15,000 army! He is wise and does not irritate Delhi. In 1971 when Bangladesh was created at Indian’s calling, Bhutan a member of the UN, was first to recognise it as new country (US was last to do so!).

Only once the King faltered. When Mrs Gandhi was stoutly defeated in elections and Morarji Desai took over, with King of Nepal he organised a Press conference in Taj Hotel in Mumbai where they both demanded that old treaties should be scrapped and new ones negotiated. Govt did nothing.

Then in one year Mrs Gandhi was back in power in Feb. She refused to sign the Finance Bill for Bhutan and as per Indian rules all un-utilised money lapses on 31st March. King visited Delhi in late March as she refused to meet any of his Ministers! She refused to meet the King also and suggested that he should go to same place (Taj in Mumbai!) and announce that everything is fine with all the treaties and he respects the Indian Govt! He did so and the finance bill was signed on 29th March, money transferred and Bhutan survived! Since then King or Govt of Bhutan has played all along with Govt of India.

The last politically sensitive matter dealt was in 2000-2003. Many Bodo and ULFA militants of Assam had camps in lower eastern Bhutan and they operated from there. Indian army did not enter their territories to flush them out. Much pressure was put on Bhutan to do so on their own. King pleaded  against bloodshed, threat to him and his people and he did not want to be in militancy. But finally he had to agree, appeal were made to militants to give up. Finally as they here King led a Brigade – their only Brigade — to attack the camps. ULFA fled and as they came to Assam Indian killed most of them. It is believed that Indian army had supplied lots of material, ammunition and man power in Bhutanese uniforms (Gorkhas!) to finish the job. Reminds one of Chinese invited by the Tibetans to fight and ‘guest’ who stayed on n Tibet!

Today most things is Indian here and all projects, money and influence is Indian. Rightly so as without India and Indian goods they have nothing- not a pin or fresh vegetables even! Bhutan grows only chillies of many varieties.