OLD TRAILS NEW COMPANIONS

A trek In Kashmir

2021

Holdsworth, a senior teacher at the Doon school holds a record for smoking a pipe on the summit of Kamet, a 25,000 ft peak!    After retirement he continued trekking to different parts of the Himalaya. His   article-  “Moderate mountains for Middle-aged mountaineers” gave a classic coverage of the ranges suitable for persons catching up on age.

there comes a time for dwellers in the Indian subcontinent, A when they have climbed their own particular Everests and are no longer young enough, or perhaps wealthy enough, to take part in a large-scale expedition to one of the few remaining 8,000-metre peaks, but when the urge to spend their holiday in the high places is still insistent. For such as these there are still literally hundreds of mountains between 18,000 and 22,000 feet which are accessible without grandiose arrangements for stores, porters or equipment. I have long since reached this age and perhaps a few memories of such moderate mountains will be of interest to some readers of the Himalayan Journal who are approaching this stage in their life.

(Moderate Mountains for Middle-aged Mountaineers, By R. L. Holdsworth, H J Vol. 25, p 85)

‘A mountaineer never retires. In a sense he never hangs his boots to call it a day. As he grows in years he continues with trekking and loving the hills . . .’  wrote Chris Bonington.  So, ignoring age as a factor, I planned a trek in Kashmir. But after a two-year hiatus at home to due to Covid restrictions, I realise that it was a difficult choice. Where to go? What are the tests, mandatory to fly out? how much difficulties can we face after so many months of being confined to a flat in Mumbai  without much exercise, and who would be the companions.

“I am no longer that young Harish Uncle. I am now fifteen!” Shreya (Ranganathan), who had trekked with me for last 5 years announced. This was a declaration of independence, of being a youth, just not only young, as all growing up children do so, as early as they can!  I had to respond to her exuberance. “I am also not that old, only five times your age plus one, 76!” We formed the age limits for the team and the rest  fitted within this wide range!

What ended in India was termed as the “second Wave of Covid”: and a third wave was expected. So, we chose to go in the in-between period.  Protocols and rules of engagements were to be complied with, a new for a trekking holiday.  RT-PCR tests for both ways travel, airlines regulations like a wearing a mask, face-shield and if you have a middle seat, then a protective suit. More careful wore hand gloves and double masks!  A feeling of being in a spacecraft- not an aircraft.

Youth packed for the trek with the usual paraphernalia but the old had additional tasks- Medical check-up, blood tests, blood pressure, cardiogram and dental checkup, and may be if I continue going to hills long enough the list may include dentures too!  Having walked in the Himalayan valleys for more than 5 decades I was ready to match steps with the youth, imbibe their enthusiasm and maybe teach them a thing of two. Rajan Dalal, nearly my age, was fitter and wiser than me!

At Pahelgam we spent two days. Rajan played at the beautiful Golf Course, some walked along the Lidder river, and some concentrated to partake Kasmiri Wazwan food and trout in the bazar.  Pandemic induced changes were here with us too, as young Sharmila (Ranganathan) who had no holidays, was attending school online, in proper uniform from a hotel room!

Old trails

For more than a century now, the trail to Lidderwat (‘camp on Lidder river’) has been in use.  Any Britisher worth his salt would not go back home without a visit to Kashmir. Kashmir, in addition to the Shikara ride, Houseboats and many other natural beauty, was also a favourite trekking destination. Amongst many places, treks from the Pahelgam area were the most popular as they can be short or long as desired. This led to the mushrooming of many trekking agencies in Kashmir  to support this need.   It is said that in the past so many groups camped, that there was no camping place available at Lidderwat. Till Nepal fully opened its door to trekkers, most of the valleys here were popular . Sonamarg, in the adjoining Sind River valley developed as a major climbing centre with a guide book “Sonamarg Climbing and Trekking Guide”, first published in 1944 by Wilfrid Noyce, H. Tilly and Whittle.    A revised and updated version was published by John Jackson in 1976. The fame of the beauty of Kashmir was well known across the world since early times.  The famous book, “The Tourist Guide to Kashmir, Ladakh and Skardu” by Major Arthur Neve, was written in 1910 and after his death Dr Ernst Neve published the revised 15^th Edition in 1933.

Nepal opened its doors for trekkers and climbers in 1949, which almost coincided with the Indian freedom and the Kashmir war of 1947-48. Soon, there were fewer trekkers and  adventure activities stopped from 1989 when  full-blown terrorism hit the valley.  Then on, it was always touch and go- an incident and suddenly the state would be closed. It is only in 2019 that the situation has remained steadier but again the pandemic forced a closure.  Now in 2021, it was new start again for the old trails.

The Lidder valley

This was my third visit to the Lidder valley, each with a different group and different circumstances.  After an accident on the high mountain of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and a hip operation in 1974, I was advised to stay on crutches for two years.   It was too long a period not to visit the Himalaya. So, in 1975 four of us visited the Lidder valley. Those days travel to Srinagar was challenging.  We arrived at Pathankot railway station after two days of travel by the Frontier Mail from Mumbai. Soon, we rushed for a plate of cutlets and omelet at the railway restaurant, managed by Naorojis of Dharamsala.   These two dishes are major gift of the British to Indian cuisine and hundreds of plates are now gorged on Indian trains daily. From the railway station, buses by N.D. Radhakishan, agency for railways, would drive you to Srinagar with a night halt en route. After a change of buses at Srinagar, one would arrive at Pahelgam for the start of the trek.

I was riding a horse all along, like early British travelers here. A long day brought us to Lidderwat and after two days on the meadow, we went to the Kolahoi Base camp. It was a different type of adventure. My horseman, Abdulla was an expert at telling stories and in the evening, he would offer special Namaz for my recovery.  As we returned to Lidderwat we were trapped in the forest rest house for three days as it poured heavily.  The chowkidar went down to his village to get more supplies leaving the rest house in our charge. We had a unique mix of stranded trekkers in the rest house. Two French air hostesses gave us gentle company and when their turn came sang a soft song. Two Belgians, not understanding a word of English caused hilarious confusion. They picked up one word from a full English statement and would reply to it with gusto. When told; “Your rucksack is getting wet in rains” he would pick up the word and say “Rucksack, I have, I have” till he was physically pointed out to his rucksack which was almost filled up with water!

My companions from Himachal Pradesh sang lusty songs. And that evening an American reporter joined us. He was from Washington Post, responsible for unearthing the Watergate Scandal and was here to interview the Indian Prime Minister Mrs. Indira Gandhi. He was given an appointment after a week so here he was in Kashmir with a liaison officer for a trek and was now trapped with us. He was at a loss when we said that he will have to sing a song as we all did. After some thinking, he went out of the room, and returned marching and thumping shoes and singing that “American anthem” –  “When the Saints go Marching in………”

I was camping again at Lidderwat in 2012 with group of friends and their children whom I knew for long. We slowly climbed up towards Tarsar Lake but had to camp early as there was heavy snow on the ground. Ravi and Paula Mariwala led the children who were playing on the snow as   gaddis crossed the snowfield with their flock. But we missed the chance to see the clean blue waters of the lake as the pass ahead was snow bound, we had to return the same way, missing visiting other lakes.    So here I was again after nine years to hopefully complete the trail.

2021 Trek

We started from Aru, the traditional starting point for this trek. A flat track led along the valley for 12 km to Lidderwat. I was a little apprehensive about my walking, due to long absence from hills due to the lockdowns. Anyway, I reached the camp safely, later than others but with verve.  With wisdom of age, I had preplanned to stay put here next few days while the others proceeded to the base camp of Kolahoi and a high-altitude lake Dodsar. They left the next day.  Vikas Manhans from Jammu, who had stayed back, and me became “green card holders” of the vast beautiful green ground.  It was interesting to watch many local trekkers visiting and enjoying the trail at their backyard.   On the second day we saw a yellow flag walking towards us, hoisted on a rucksack of a lady. She turned out to be from Mumbai, my city, and was arranging treks for various groups. Like the modern way she had no office but operated only through Instagram and Twitter. And the Yellow flag, with her name, announced her treks to attract customers. As we met her she was keen to take selfies and pictures of her standing on a rock holding the yellow flag high.

The same evening a large group of a curious mixture of elderly and young arrived and settled nearby.  Young students sat in a tent and were lectured by their leader. Later, they all climbed to a ridge and we could see the teacher giving them gyan. I wondered at this and contemplated if they were from some local school.  Kashmir has a tradition of outdoor schooling in their summer courses.  Tyndale Biscoe School, founded in 1880 is one of the oldest schools in Jammu and Kashmir. The school was started by Christian missionaries and was named after Canon Cecil Tyndale-Biscoe (1863–1949), a well-known name in education field. Eventually, five other mission schools were set up, one each in different parts of the capital city and one in Anantnag, still functioning as backbone of education in Kashmir.

Mallinson Girls’ School was founded in 1912 by Miss Violet B. Fitze as the Girls’ Mission High School. Its name was later changed to Mallinson Girls’ School in honour of Miss Mallinson, a missionary who served in the school from 1922–1961.  Many such schools take students out in the field for trekking and education is imparted on treks.

I could not hold back my curiosity and visited their camp in the evening to talk to the teacher, who introduced himself simply as “Gotu”.  But behold, they were also from Mumbai suburbs and were a group of family and friends. Mr Gotu was well travelled, and this was his way of passing on his experiences to the young in his family. He narrated his experiences in a tent and for practical took them on the ridge.

Kolahoi

We were in shadow of Kolahoi,[1]  the highest peak of the Kashmir valley. We were to admire its view all along the trek. This legendary peak can be admired from many angles on this trek. But it’s steep walls will succumb to modern day rock climbers when they are allowed to climb here in peace.

Amongst the early explorers in Kashmir were Neve brothers, Dr Ernest Neve, a fine climber and a medical doctor. Major Arthur Neve  was more of an explorer and had joined with leading names like Dr Tom Longstaff to the Karakorams and the Siachen glacier. Ernest was a regular visitor to the Lidder valley, particularly to the Kolahoi  peak.

Ernest Neve was a leading mountaineer and founding member of the Himalayan Club.  He made the first ascents of  Kolahoi (17,839 feet) in 1912 and Mount Tatticooti (15,560 feet) in 1901. Along with his brother Arthur, Ernest also climbed various other Kashmiri peaks such as Sunset Peak, Rajdain, and Sachkach.

Arthur Neve was a priest, a medical doctor and a mountaineer.  During times when he was able to take time off from the hospital, Arthur found great enjoyment in discovering the outlying parts of Kashmir for either travel, medical work for people who could not reach his hospital, or evangelical work.   His first tour in 1882 to the outskirts of Kashmir sparked this passion, as it allowed him to see other tribes, villages, people, and terrains. This first tour also led him to believe that there was more medical need and work to be done throughout these different parts of Kashmir, and this mentality contributed to what drove him to begin the long process of building the Kashmir Mission Hospital.

While on these excursions, Neve travelled to places like the Hindus valley, the Saltoro valley, and Tagur. He became a reputable mountaineer, and some of his notable climbs include a climb to Nun and  Kun at 23,000 feet, as well as in the Nubra valley in Zanskar and Ladakh

“Kashmir is, for mountaineers, associated with the names of Karakoram, Nanga Parbat and the Nun Kun group. These are all big mountains and possibly beyond the reach of the middle-aged. But perhaps some people do not realize that above the Kashmir Valley proper the Great Himalaya comes down to heights of no more than 18,000 feet. In the east, easily accessible from Pahalgam and the Liddar Valley there is the fine peak of Kolahoi, 17,800 feet looking remarkably like a minor Matterhorn. It has, I believe, been climbed two or three times, first, in the first decade of the century by Doctor E Neve.  New routes might be invented.”

So wrote Holdsworth. And now we were camping  at foot of it

Kolahoi, 17,799 feet, the highest of the peak in  the vale of Kashmir, is also an interesting climb, varying in difficulty according to the amount of snow.

Its highest and central peak is Gashibrar, (‘The Goddess of Light’). The two other main peaks are Buttress peak (16,785 feet), a mile to the south of Gashibrar, and Bur Dalau (16,764 feet), a mile and a half to the south-east. Dr. Ernest Neve and Kenneth Mason made the first ascent of the latter on 21st June 1911, by the eastern arete.

The first ascent of Gashibrar was made by Kenneth Mason and Dr Ernst Neve  on 28 June 1912. They followed the Armiun Narr, crossed the Har Nag pass, and reached the icefield south of Kolahoi to the summit.   G. R. Cooke and Lieut. B. W. Battye climbed the peak on the 9th of July 1926.  In 1938, John Hunt (later  Lord Hunt) with Rowland Brotherhood  made an ascent by a different   route.[2]  Kolahoi proved difficult for later  parties and it defied many attempts.  In September 2018, a group of nine trekkers from Kashmir went on an expedition to the Kolahoi peak. Unfortunately,  the group was caught in rock fall near Burdalaw region on the glacier during their descent, due to which the team lost two of its members: Adil Shah, founder of Alpine Adventures group and Naveed Jeelani who was a junior administrative officer from Srinagar. Their bodies were later retrieved from the glacier after two days due to bad weather.

With some reading and walking and such interesting visitors our days at Lidderwat passed quickly and soon it was time for the  party to return with their experiences from the  trek to  Kolahoi base camp.

Lidderwat, Satlanjan, Kolahoi Base Camp and Dodsar.  (Shekhar Jaywant writes)

After settling Harish and Vikas at Lidderwat with sufficient rations and a person to look after him, the rest of us set course for the Kolahoi Base Camp (BC) with a night halt at Satlanjan.

The route was gradually climbing along a valley, with the fast-flowing Lidder river for company. Though the walk was long, there were conifers and shaded grassy areas to rest along the way. Nitin,(Kanitkar)  as usual was scampering all over the slopes on either side with his camera ready to capture any birds or animals. There were camps of Gujjars along the way with cows and some buffaloes grazing in the meadows with lovely mountains as a backdrop. Stopping and taking in the beauty also gave us an opportunity  to get our breath back and replenish our energy with the dry fruits and snacks carried by Mukund and Urvashi. Gradually, the trees turned sparse, and the ground started becoming rocky. We reached Satlanjan (‘place with seven streams’) at lunchtime and decided to camp close to the river at a site chosen by Shreya. The horses fetched up shortly and the hot Maggie noodles served was a welcome. The afternoon and evening were spent in resting and after an early dinner it was into the sleeping bags. The temperature was dropping as the sun went down and we had gained about 1000 ft during the day.

The next day after an early breakfast, we were off to the Kolahoi BC. Rain was expected later in the day, and we were hoping to reach the campsite before that. The walk this time was shorter, about 5 kms, but the area was rocky, with no shade. The views around continued to fascinate. Sure enough, it started clouding up, which was a relief, however the wind picked up and there were indications that it would rain. We tried to pick up pace to beat the rain and were lucky to find shelter in a bakarwal’s hut, with a hot cup of Kahwa and a Kangdi to keep warm, while the others found shelter under a rock overhang.

The next day started with a river crossing on our way to Dodsar lake towards Kolahoi peak. Though a rope was put across the fast-flowing river, it wasn’t much use as it was held very loosely and most of us had a dip in the river. Mukund ended up with a wet camera which remained non-functional for the rest of the trip. The climb thereafter was steep and very tiring, but at the end of it we were rewarded with an awesome view of the bluish green Dodsar lake alongwith some frozen portions; and the glacier and the Kolahoi peak in the background. It was very windy with a slight drizzle, and we were unable to spend too much time on the top. After a packed lunch, we set course to return by a different route that our guide Arafat had planned. He had already gone ahead to recce it and luckily was spotted on a ridge in the distance. The route was with a more gradual descent, but more treacherous with slippery scree slopes and traverses over sections of snow. The guides had a difficult task of ferrying each of us across. Enroute, we saw Huksar lake. We got back into the valley between Satlanjan and the base camp. This was the most tiring day of the entire trek. We had climbed about 1300 ft on a steep slope and descended the same height over treacherous terrain.

The next two days were spent on the return trip to Lidderwat over familiar ground but an easier walk, descending along the valley.

Onwards to lakes   (Harish Kapadia continues)

A satisfied team gathered again, and our trek to the upper valley started.   We chose to go up slowly with a camp at Homwas and Sekiwas. The trail was very easy, but trekkers wanted a challenge, so halfway through, Sonal Jain left with Vikas to visit a small lake higher on the ridge and to join us at the camp.   We could see   the Yemhar Pass (‘Pass of Yem- “God of Death”) a direct trail to Sonamarg. On the northern side of the pass a steep rocky staircase was built but several mules had fallen to their deaths.

Next morning, we woke up to much noise of goats, as they hassled for salt that they were given as the morning ritual. The trail climbed up steadily without any difficulties to Tarsar lake.  The Gazetteer narrates a legend of a Fakir staying in a cave at Kolahoi glacier. He successfully accepted a challenge to swim across the Tarsar lake (Tar- swim, Sar- lake) but later he drowned in the Marsar lake (Mar- dead). Our day at this lake was peaceful despite many, visitors. An afternoon hailstorm, a rainbow, calm waters in morning leaves with you with its beauty and peace.  A pass of the same name across ridge in the north led us to the Zajimarg valley. This vast valley had just a few huts of shepherds, and the river flowed quietly and thus the valley has an appropriate nickname – ‘the silent valley’.  On the northern wall of the valley a beautiful shapely peak   Deo Masjid (4440 m) stood.   A curious mixture of names; Deo- God in Hindu terminology while Masjid -the Muslim prayer house, representing the traditional culture of the valley.

A huge square rock called ‘Handoobeta’ marks almost the centre of the valley. A rich trader and owner of flock of sheep visited us. We discussed future of meat production as a traditional occupation and whether his next generation will agree to roam in the hills. No one has an answer of course.

From a higher camping ground in the Zazimarg valley, major portion of the team separated and gradually climbed at first to Sundersar (‘beautiful lake’). It hardly took them two hours. But trail ahead to Marsar was steeper. There is a great view of the lake, with its discharge leading to the Dachigam forest.  The lake can be viewed from the ridge but to descent to its shore is steep and full of scree. And of course, one has to climbed up the steep slope!  Fun was awaiting the youth on their return. A lovely snow slope next to the camp offered a good slope to glissade. Shanaya and Shreya undertook many rounds up and down, putting the seniors to shame.

Now we were to go across the watershed from the Lidder (Pahelgam) to Sind (Sonamarg) valley.  Adjacent to our camp was the Sonamus pass (pass of gold-beautiful grass). At first it appeared impossibly difficult but once our mules went down comfortably it was encouraging.  After hard work and exposure, we were down to the grassland at its foot. Then on it was a long but easy descent to the Sonamarg valley after a night halt at Sonmasti. The trail ahead was now full of beauty for which Kashmir is known.  On a single slope there were trees of Chinar, fur, pine, deodar and even an occasional birch.  Rajan and Sonal, both trained singers, gave a fitting tribute to the beauty by busting out into songs! What a great way to end the walk.  We eased ourselves to the river valley floor, with me staggering in later as always.

Our waiting bus took us to a highway restaurant for an early dinner.  Youth were busy with demolishing some vast amount of food. My eyes lighted up and without reading the long menu, I ordered a plate of Cutlets! “What is that?  Never heard of it before”, said the waiter. In one ignorant sentence he had dismissed the British Raj, their culinary gift and my wish to celebrate 76^th birthday in style!!  I could see Shreya and others giving me sympathetic smiles.

We stayed on the banks of the Nagin Lake at the beautiful Dar-es-salam hotel. Here, I could educate my new companions on the continuing pleasures of good old days by ordering traditional Kashmiri Wazwan items of meat – Gushtaba, Rista, and Tabakmas, with dishes for vegetarians; Dum aloo (potatoes), Ruangan Chaman (paneer) and Waza Palak (palak veg). All to be enjoyed with   Saffron laced Kahwa.

Au revior, Kashmir, till next time.

[1] “The Kolahoi group, An Historical Sketch”, by Farnces Leeson.   Himalayan Journal Vol. XVI, p.112

[2] “Kolahoi by the South Face”, by John Hunt.  Himalayan Journal, vol. VIII 1936, p. 106, and “Another Route on Kolahoi”, by Peter Wormald. Himalayan Journal Vol. XVI, p.112