YOUTH IN GIBSON’S GARHWAL

The Ruinsara Youth Expedition

1984

THE SPRINGS of enchantment lie within ourselves; they arise from our sense of wonder, that most      precious of gifts, the birth-right of every child.

      Thus wrote Eric Shipton. It is no wonder that many a young person is attracted to the hills. If they are exposed at the right age, the wonderful world of the mountains is theirs for a lifetime. It was with this aim that we planned a Himalayan trip with young friends. The main aim was to introduce, train and give exposure to high altitudes` to a selected team of youngsters between the ages of 16 to 21. They had been trekking and climbing with us in the local hills for some years and were sufficiently motivated to undertake such a trip. It was felt, as proven later, that a good standard of expertise can be achieved rather quickly by such a personalised training programme. We were running a training course and expedition together.

      Though mountaineering has been practiced for many years now     in India, the social and parental attitudes differ widely. It is termed as a ‘very risky’ sport. Our young group hailed from a variety of backgrounds. Some were fortunate enough to be encouraged by their     parents, some had a lukewarm response, others’ parents were worried and at least one set of parents were down-right hostile and even threatened us through a lawyer. However these attitudes were braved and had almost no psychological effect while on the mountains. The ultimate age group was 8 to 68 years and the climbing abilities varied from a first Himalayan visit to experienced stalwarts. The combination was beneficial to both.

      Once the idea germinated we looked for the area. What could    be better than to follow the footsteps of J.T.M. Gibson and J.A.K. Martyn, who pioneered such youthful ideas many decades ago? They were the first in introducing the young to the mountains and mountaineering, long before it received the official encouragement and recognition. We decided to literally follow their footsteps to Ruinsara valley and climb Kalanag and Bandarpunch West. Gibson led a party of school boys from Doon School to this area. He introduced them early to the pleasures of climbing, nature and camp-life. No wonder the class he generated were Gurdial Singh, Cheema, Jagjit and the like. We borrowed details from his autobiography As I Saw It and made an expedition card from a painting of Swargarohini he possessed. Not to be outdone, just after us a 14-year old Doon School boy climbed Kalanag and kept the Gibson legacy truly alive.

      Youth took over right from the beginning, discovering strength and fun as planning went along. After the usual hectic activity we put the last lock on the kit-bags and departed on 8 May 1984, for Dehra-dun and proceeded to Sankri. In 3 days, via Taluka, Osla and Ruinsara lake, we established a base at 3840 m in upper Ruinsara valley. After 3 days of ferrying loads ABC was occupied at 4025 m and we were ready for the mountains. This year was one of the very ‘dry’ years and the snow-line was at about 4900 m. Every afternoon the air was filled with dry sand from the falling moraine walls. On the credit side it gave us clear skies and a ‘clean’ glacier all through our stay.

      During the next 3 days we recceed the place and started training in various aspects of mountaineering. The training included almost everything that one should know like practical climbing, theoretical aspects and various natural phenomena. These were happy days together, filled with activities, laughter and wise-cracks in the evening. The ladies produced delicious dishes, good enough to match Jagdish’s observations on Swargarohini or Vasantbhai’s philosophical interludes. The days were best summed up by one of our youngest members, Prashant: ‘Up to now we were like frogs in a well; never knew such a world existed.’

Ruinsara Peak (c. 5480 m)

      On 22 May we started the action. Arun left with Ravi, Kartik and Hina to climb this peak. They descended to the glacier and crossed the lower moraine to the true left. They camped at an exposed place but retreated. Eventually on 23 May the summit was reached by climbing the southeastern slopes.

Kalanag (6387 m) (Black Peak)

      On 26 May, Dhiren, Gigi, Kartik and I left for the highest peak of the area. After Camp 1 at 4880 m, we established Camp 2 at 5550 m. The route initially crossed a crevasse-filled snowfield and then went up to the left. Camp 2 was set up about 450 m below the col. Dhiren and Kartik opened route upto the col that evening. We were discovering the benefits of mixing youthful energies and experience. The mountain opened up its secrets to an experienced eye while the strength of the young solved problems easily.

      We left for the summit at 5 a.m. the next day. Gigi returned after an hour while the others reached the col in 2 hours. A bergschrund divided the summit ridge. By the time we crossed it, the weather deteriorated and we called it off for the day.

      29 May was the summit day. By 10 a.m. we were across the bergschrund and Kartik energetically led to the ridge and above through soft snow. Gigi again stopped 100 m below the summit and almost froze while waiting for us to return from the summit. We reached the summit at 4.45 p.m. in howling winds and with loose powdery snow blowing on our faces. Gigi had to be pushed down. We were worried for her safety as she looked pale and disoriented. However she was not the one to be defeated. She matched the boys in strength and stamina, and if ever beaten by a male would retort; ‘So what, you are a guy’. Things were better as we reached the col and back to Camp 2 absolutely tired. Dhiren put some food on the stove and dozed off. What a mess in the mess!

      In the next two days Arun, Ravi and Sher Singh climbed Kala-nag. They were lucky to get clear views and bright sunshine. This was a particularly happy day for Ravi, who was one day short of his 18th birthday. He had turned into a strong climber and used his strength to great advantage for the team. As a quarter-master he had planned tempting menus, and needless to say, ate most of the food himself.

Barasukha (c. 5530 m) and Chhotanag (5220 m)

      We all gathered at Camp 1. On 1 June two teams left for the above peaks.

      Barasukha is the highest peak on the ridge above Camp 1 leading to Dhumdhar Kandi pass. Dhiren and Gigi left at 8 a.m. to go up a moraine slope of 60 m. This led them to the top of the ridge where they roped up due to the exposure. Here on they had to proceed carefully with crampons and belay on a thin layer of ice and scree. The summit was reached at 12.30 p.m. They were elated, naturally so, as this  was the only peak climbed by the ‘youth’ on their own.

      For Chhotanag, Milind and Pratap Singh crossed the crevasse-filled snow-slope to move to the western end. They climbed a sharp ridge, roped up, to the top. They could look down on the entire Bandarpunch glacier.

      With this our training phase ended. A team under Jagdish Nanavati had already left for the green pastures of Har-ki-Doon. Others joined them. We now planned to tackle a difficult mountain.

Bandarpunch West (White Peak) (6102 m) (First ascent)

      This peak lies to the SW of Kalanag. It had defeated one attempt. In June, 1950 J.T.M. Gibson with Tensing Norgay (of Everest fame and in pre-Everest strength) attempted it from the south. They were defeated by vertical walls and ice-gullies. Between us and this formidable peak lay a 12 km long Bandarpunch glacier, totally broken and crevasse-filled. Moreover Bandarpunch had not been attempted from this side at all. We had observed the mountain from various angles and noted that there were two broken icefalls to be negotiated, one at the junction of Bandarpunch glaciers and the other above it.

      Arun, Dhiren, Kartik and I left ABC on 5 June and moved  into the glacier. We were engulfed by thick fog and hence progress was slow. We moved along the true left moraine but at the same time maintaining a distance from the nearby crumbling steep walls. We were soon stopped by a number of wide crevasses. We had to retrace our steps a few times, ultimately reaching a col at the bottom of the rocky ridge leading to the peak 5749 m. Due to the dry summer deep crevasses were open and we could cross or jump across them. A little snow-cover would make them a most tricky proposition, as we were to discover on our return. We moved to the left and pitched Camp 1 at 4630 m on the moraine. To our right the icefall from Bandarpunch West glacier descended.

      We now had two alternatives, either to proceed straight up the glacier or to turn to the west glacier. After a day of recce, we preferred the latter course. We followed a moraine ridge and crossed a wide crevasse field on the top of the west glacier to camp at 5300 m.

      Ahead another small but vicious-looking icefall barred our way. On 8 June, we moved into that. After many a false lead, we could find a route. But that would entail us descending into a wide crevasse and going across 110 m at the bottom. A ticklish affair which we accomplished the next day with fixed ropes.

      On 9 June, Dhiren led across with Arun and me and we were settled at Camp 3, 5670 m, at the foot of the northern slopes of the peak.

      10 June was again a ‘peak day’ for us. We left at 6 a.m. and climbed 150 m on a wall with crampons to gain the NE ridge. Once there the snow became soft and the weather cloudy. We could climb avoiding a few crevasses and finally reached the corniced top at 9.45 a.m. We had a view of the steep drop to the southern valley, adjoining ridge of Bandarpunch and of the distant Swargarohini peaks. It was a happy moment for all of us, particularly for Dhiren as this was his first virgin. He was deeply moved. Well, if you are just turning 20, you have prepared hard, fought against jaded attitudes—then you are entitled to a tear or two. We were back to Camp 3 by 1 p.m. to stay the night.

      11 June gave us some anxious moments. By 7 a.m. we recrossed the fixed ropes and were proceeding down. I fell and dangled in a crevasse to be pulled out by Dhiren and Kartik. Below at Camp 2 it started snowing in earnest making it difficult to see the route and crevasses. After a little excitement we managed to reach the green grass of ABC by evening.

Bali (Yamnotri) Pass (c. 4880 m)

      Gibson had described a high pass leading to Yamnotri from Ruinsara valley. It followed ‘Ski Valley II’ from the lake. Dhiren and I decided to return via this route.

      We moved the camp to the foot of the pass on 16 June, following a moraine ridge. On 17th after a small traverse we climbed across a prominent bergschrund. By 8 a.m. we were at the pass. Views were excellent on the other side as we descended on steep scree to reach the grassy slopes and flowers. A rock-ridge above Damni presented problems, but by 1 p.m. we were on the old pligrim route to Yamnotri. It was dirty and stinking and we cancelled any idea of a holy bath to rush down to Janki chatti and Hanuman chatti.

      By now we suffered, what Gibson would term, ‘the call of the flesh-pots’. So, it was back to Dehradun and home. At the end we could say to each other what Lord C. Schuster said of the mountains:

Always alluring though they flout you; always dear though they slay you; they give you strength and friends and happiness; and to have known them is indeed a liberal education.