OBRA GAD, THE HIDDEN VALLEY

(2005)

In September 1999, we came down the steep trail from Lewari and Fetari along the Supin gad. As the descent finished, there was a small tea stall where we relaxed. A river coming in from the northwest was meeting the Supin river at this point. I eyed a lovely trail going up on the right bank of this river. Sensing my looks of inquiry, the tea stall owner said, “This is the Obra Gad. It goes up for a while and there are  beautiful grounds at head of the valley. Initially the river remains hidden and rarely you can see it, hence the name Obra, the hidden valley”.  I stored this somewhere at the back of mind for a future date. We many times organized a short week long visits to the Himalaya so that many friends who do not have a longer holiday can join us. One such trip was developing with our friend Maninder who worked for a leading foreign bank and was always short of time. Despite my suggesting some other nearby valleys, he kept insisting on going into the Obra and soon I said why not. We were a small party of about eight people and in September 2005 they were going up the slopes of this hidden valley.

Along with Maninder came  Bhushan, his neighbour in Delhi. Bhushan had travelled in the Himalaya and it typical Delhi way and language, he said, “I have seen chapa chapa (corner corner) of many valleys in the Himalaya”. He narrated that how in slippers he used to trek going into different valleys, sustaining on local food and sometimes on grass (!), trekking without water bottle,  tent or much equipment. From the way he talked we Bombay crowd exchanged glances at each other, he must have regaled the ladies at many parties in Delhi with these stories. But he was a great company. As we trekked up, full of innocence and enthusiastic which were  economic with truth.

Camping at the Obra Gad temple, going up steeply we tried to go too long a distance on the second day. Unacclimatised as we were, we were forced to camp in the middle clearing, a grassy ledge as it poured down heavily. The grass was too tall to see the trail and there were many plants which caused scratches and itching.  All these had taken three four days and already our banker friends were looking at the calendar and their watches. So next day, in spite of inclement weather, they decided to make a dash for the upper valley and straight return home. Bhushan also left with them without exploring a single corner of this beautiful valley.  The same fate was written for us as it continued to rain and for such a short trip; one has to accept that if there is  bad weather, it means you go home, which we did. But by then, our climber friend Vinay Hegde had a tantalizing glimpse of a peak named Ranglana (5554 m).   This peak grew in stature  and the Obra Gad had spread its tentacles in our minds. So only after few months, in May 2006, we were compelled to return to the Obra. Travelling from Mumbai to Dehra Dun we entered the Govind Pant Wildlife Sanctuary at Naitwar and reach Jakhol (2240 m). There the road ended here. Jakhol, named after Jakhand Devta was home of a beautiful temple and a small forest rest house, little above the village. Talking to village elders, we came to know that in few days after us the local God or Devta would be carried in a procession up the  Obra Gad  to a holy cave which is supposed to be his home. For the first time the God would be travelling there in many years.

This time we decided to go slowly and after walking short distances, camped so as to acclimatize better, a better approach if you wish to see chapa chapa of any valley. We camped at Obra temple (2290 m) and steeply climbed up to Rakhanda (2810 m) where we were trapped in rain during our last visit.  As we climbed on the forest trail on the third day, a vast panorama opened to our eyes, something that one could never imagine existed in upper slopes of this valley. We camped at Himri thach (3400 m) surrounded by small but challenging and beautiful mountains. Short distance up was Jairai at 3680 m where our porters left us to make a sort of base camp. There were some steep granite rocks up one of the side valleys which our climbing friends eyed. However, what attracted them was a group of peaks towards south to our camp. The whole group was dominated by Ranglana  (5554 m) and the ridge continued to  Dhodu (5418 m) and Dhodu ka Gauchha (c. 5100 m). Behind this ridge, stood  Andurko, the only peaked named on the map, and  towards further east lay the famed Har ki Dun valley which is visited by several hundred trekkers every year.

Vinay, Rajal and Rajesh with Ang Sherpa   left towards the Gunchha ridge. The weather was  unsettled and as a result the mountain was not in best condition to be climbed. Wisely, opting for a lower peak, on 29^th May they climbed Gunchha to a grand view towards east and north amidst gathering clouds.  On the 30^th we shifted our camp. Next four days we operated from this camp, everyone going in  different directions, some reading books and a variety of combinations between these two options. mp 6 km up the valley to Devkyari (4040 m).  I would never forget the first view of Devkyari. As you climb steep jumble of rocks, suddenly a vast open ground surrounded by steep rocky peaks opens to you. It was still recovering from winter, but there were large patches of green grass on which some flowers were growing. Towards north was the Devkyari glacier, which after taking a sharp turn led to a pass of the same name and into Kinnaur (Sangla).  The entire area was full of sharp rocky peaks.  Again as the climbers left for the upper glacier to attempt peaks some of us made excursions on different sides of the valley. Louis and Garry Wilson turned west towards a col which would have led them to Vishkhopri thach which was on the Supin River through which we had come down four years earlier. Towards east there to cairns to mark an easy route leading down to Har ki Doon. For an enterprising party, it would make for a grand traverse, starting from Bhardsar lake in the Supin coming across to Obra at Devkyari and crossing over to Har ki Dun.  Again something tucked away in the mind for future.

On 1  June as we woke up, the large procession carrying palanquin of God arrived at Devkyari, trumpets were blowing and to the beating of drums, chanting of songs, Jakhand Devta arrived in style at his ancient home. He was accompanied by not less than 300 people, who all camped about a km away from us on this vast Devkyari plateau.  After several ceremonies  Jakhand Devta was  taken up the glacier for a ritual bath in pure waters near the mouth of the glacier.  As God rested in cave, the villagers gathered, made a round circle and started performing a simple but rhythmic dance in honour of God. They were carrying a small sword with a thicker flat blade moving it round and round and dancing to the drum beat. In this vast plateau of Devkyari, surrounding mountains and green grass made for a beautiful setting. Towards end of the dance, villagers gathered around two priests who were performing rituals with the Devta in centre. They were moving slowly as if in a trance with the drums beating in a slow rhythmic movement. The priest gathered few of the swords from different people, held all between his teeth and continued dancing in a trance for a while.  As the dance ended these swords were handed back to their owners, now purified with blessings of Jakhand Devta.  The villagers stayed quietly near the cave while we retired to our tents nearby.

Next morning the Devta left early with the same fanfare as it has used while arriving. By this time our climbers had also returned having recceed  the peaks surrounding the glacier, but unable to climb any due to the fresh snow. Hence it was time to return to Jakhol which we made it in two days.

We had tasted the beauty of this hidden valley, seen its peaks and enjoyed its beauty.  The Devkyari, the square of God,  was certainly a blessed place and, it is inviting for any future party to climb, to trek, just to enjoy the beauty and flowers or visit the nearby valleys. There is lot to do and I assure you that we haven’t still seen the chapa chapa of this valley.