Wonders of Karakoram

WONDERS OF THE KARAKORUM. By Pervez A. Khan. Pp.160, 87 colour plates, 2 maps, 1996. (Ferozsons, Rawalpindi, nps).

While climbing in the Siachen glacier, in the eastern Karakoram, I have looked at the panorama on the west and had always wondered how the area would appear from the ground. These areas are the Northern Areas of Pakistan. Due to the troubled nature of relationships between India and Pakistan, I, as an Indian cannot visit them. The Indian passport states ‘not valid for the Northern Areas of Pakistan’ for this very area is disputed. There are several books, expedition accounts and articles available that give you a taste of what it is like in the western Karakoram. But then that is not like the real thing.
As one goes through this book with several photographs of mountains, people, their sports, eating habits, wildlife and natural habitats, one aspect is clear. Political boundaries may separate them but the character and physical aspects of mountains and people on both the sides are the same. Despite the divisions or armies separating them, both the sides of the Karakorams and the people living in them are alike. That is the real thing !

This book covers those Northern Areas of Pakistan which are called the western Karakorams (though the author prefers to call them Karakorum). The range is divided into two districts, Gilgit and Baltistan. The introductory chapter covers various aspects of the range briefly, as one would expect from a coffee-table book. Geology, climate, wildlife and exploration history are covered. The list of ‘8000 m peaks in world’ looks out of place and the ‘table of peaks in the Karakorams’ is rather incomplete. You will come across better pictures in the Japanese book on the same subject (this book is formulated on similar lines) but there are certain specialities of this publication.

The best thing about this book is that it is written by a Pakistani. In fact no one can know the area better than a native. We have had too many introductions and tomes about the Karakorams from the western explorers and climbers. Covering the various aspects of Gilgit and Hunza, the author mentions of a legend of Siri Badat, or explains that famous peak Bojohagur Dunashir’s meaning as ‘where only the horse of the demon can go’. Such insights, regularly offered in this book sets it apart from the usual glossy books on similar subjects, and it could be narrated only by a person who understands the language and the religion.

In the margins many well known Pakistani and Asian explorers, climbers and surveyors are introduced. Here is information which otherwise would be hard to come by. The author introduces Khan Sahib Afraz Gul Khan, who surveyed the major parts of the Karakorams. Khan ‘who was a Pathan and known to be totally fearless, had almost a supernatural sense of topography, and in the realm of plane-table survey of high mountains he had no peers. ‘Prince Sultan Feroze Sufi from the ruling family in Nagar was a man of letters and the poet laureate of the Northern Areas. ‘This aristocratic gentleman, clad in a corduroy jacket; a necktie or a cravat in place; always with his plumed felt hat; will no longer be seen pruning his terraced ‘chaman’ (garden) nor ambling in the lanes of Gilgit and neither at polo ‘throwing in the ball’. He passed away last August(‘94) when well into his eighties.’

We have Nazir Abbas Mirza who initiated the idea of organised expeditions and trekking in Pakistan. Under him several ace Pakistani climbers were trained, like Ashruf Aman, Rajan Shah and Nazir Sabir, who climbed K2 in 1981.

Mahdi of Hunza was part of the Ardito Desio’s expedition of 1954 which made the first ascent of K2. Dr. Desio in his book Ascent of K2 writes; ‘Mahdi was very strong physically and had a vast experience of mountains…. and as single-minded in his desire to reach the summit as the Italians.’

The author introduces many other mountaineers warmly. Nazir Sabir of Hunza, ‘ a man of immense physical endurance and will power’, Raja Muhammed Bashir of Charehan, Muree hills, who, ‘after bracing a bitter cold night in the open at 24,700 feet along with the Japanese climbers stepped upon the virgin peak of the 25,400 feet Saltoro Kangri.’ There are several others who are similarly mentioned, making us aware that there are several brilliant climbers in the sub-continent.

The author, Pervez Ahmad Khan is also a man of two worlds. He was born in Shimla and graduated from Lucknow, both in India. He had his schooling in Rawalpindi and now lives in Muree, which is a hill station in Pakistan similar to the one where he was born. He has undertaken several expeditions in the range, including some sponsored by the National Geographic Society.

The latter half of the book is about the area of Baltistan, albeit partly covered. Several high mountains are discussed with a brief history and the explanations of their names. Chogholisa (‘the great hunting ground), K2 or Chogori (‘the big mountain’), Masherbrum,(‘the dooms day mountain’) and Gasherbrum (‘the splendid mountain’) and many others are mentioned. All these peaks are in the valley of the Indus river (‘the Lion river’) and the Shyok. But as we come to the eastern part, alas, the author has to stop. For the valley where the Shyok originates is now controlled by India. The Karakoram Pass, the pass which gives the entire range its name, is the eastern most point of the range and is situated on the divide between the Asian sub-continent and Central Asia. Just as I, an Indian cannot visit the Northern Areas of Pakistan, unfortunately, Pervez as a Pakistani cannot visit the eastern areas of the Karakoram, which are with India. When will all this divisions be eradicated, allowing everyone to enjoy the range in full ?

Nazir Sabir is the Honorary Local Secretary of the Himalayan Club. This international club has its headquarters in Bombay. I correspond regularly with Nazir to obtain results of various climbing expeditions to the Northern Areas of the Karakoram. The only time a policeman visited the Himalayan Club’s office, however casually, was to inquire why a Pakistani writes to me regularly from Hunza ? I mentioned this to Nazir and he had similar difficulties. Government there was suspicious as to why he was writing to me in Bombay about the ‘sensitive’ areas of the Karakoram ! We communicate even today. As this book portrays, mountains, people, culture, wildlife and all other aspects are of a similar nature on both sides of the border, and artificial barriers cannot dissolve the love of the mountaineers for the Karakorams.

HARISH KAPADIA