The Climbers- Sea-Ice-Rock – By Bonington

THE CLIMBERS. A History of Mountaineering. By Chris Bonington. Pp. 288, 40 colour and 82 b/w illustrations, 6 maps, 1992. (BBC Books and Hodder & Stoughton, London, £16.95).

SEA, ICE — and — ROCK. Sailing and Climbing above The Arctic Circle. By Chris Bonington and Robin Knox-Johnston. Pp. 143, 41 colour and 15 b/w illustrations, 3 maps, 1992. (Hodder & Stoughton, London, £15.99).

When Bonington visited Bombay in May 1992 he carried a copy of The Climbers, his 12th book. When he returned in September 1992, he brought his 13th book: Sea, ke-and-Rock. Not many writers, especially mountaineers can boast of such prolific writing achievements.

The second book is about about a sailing-cum-climbing expedition above the arctic circle. A small group sailed and climbed in Greenland. The sailing skills of the master mariner, Robin Knox-Johnson and mountaineering skills of Chris Bonington combine. Robin Knox-Johnson with 9 previous books to his credit, matches Bonington’s writing skills too. The result, an interesting book. But it is the former book, The Climbers that would interest the readers of the Himalayan Journal more.

The Climbers deals with ‘A History of Mountaineering’. There have been few books in this genre, starting with the most celebrated of them all, Kenneth Mason’s Abode of Snow. Mason’s book covered the period from the earliest time till the first ascent of Everest in 1953. He covered only the Himalayan and transhimalayan ranges. Chris has a different line up. He covers both the Alps and the Himalaya starting from 1881 to 1990. The bulk of the book, 200 pages, covers the adventures till 1953. The prolific period of climbing for the last 37 years is covered in 68 pages. ‘A brief History of Mountaineering’, compiled by Audrey Salkeld towards the end, ensures a complete record of adventure.

If Mason’s book is a thorough experience, like a symphony playing, with all the pieces, Bonington’s book is to be read on an arm-chair with a cup of tea and a violin concerto playing lively tunes. The difference is obvious, but what is lost by way of complete coverage, Bonington makes up by way of extremely good reading and fun. Here is a part of the history. Bonington, narrating the history, and he knows it:

It is difficult for me to be completely objective since I have been closely and directly involved with the development of climbing in the last forty years. It has filled my life, given me that combination of joy, excitement, wonder and inevitable sorrow at the loss of all too many friends, but I hope that has enabled me to empathize all the better with those early climbers who first explored the mysteries of the Alps and traced the course of this serpentine river of ours.
So, turning familiarity to an advantage, Bonington writes about the climbers (not explorers). For the younger generation, particularly, the first 200 pages tell all the well-known stories and weave different patterns. This is enjoyable and exciting with the right mix of events and stories.

The latter pages consider the last 37 years, a long period. The chapters present three main issues as such, leaving behind the attempts to be exhaustive. The major climbs and development of climbing the mountains the ‘hard way up’ are considered. In the next chapter ‘The Art of Suffering’ extreme climbing is taken up. Exploits of Messner, Kurtyka and Kukuczka and the death of Boardman, Tasker and Madntyre are covered in detail. But the last chapter is a stealer: ‘Always a Little Further^ Here Bonington considers the major developments, which may affect the future attitudes. Sponsorship, commercial climbs, sport climbing and various developments in rock climbing advancements are touched upon. We are left with a vision of the future.
In his opening sentence itself, Bonington declares the scope of the book: ‘In writing a one volume history of mountaineering I have had no choice but to be selective’. It is here that some can have a grouse against this book. To a lay reader it may appear that mountaineering is still a British preserve, or that only Americans and Europeans indulge in the sport. Not enough mention is made about the Japanese climbers or of climbers from many other countries such as South Korea, India and others. This has led to certain specific achievements of these nationalities being ignored. For example the traverse of the Nanda Devi peaks by the Indo-Japanese team, climbs of many high peaks in the East Karakoram by the Japanese in the 1970s are not mentioned. They marched for weeks to reach the base camps over high passes and climbed giants like Singhi Kangri, Teram Kangri and others. One may not like the fixed-ropes but they are there, even as a style.

The personal selection necessarily misses out on some areas. The entire Himalayan range from Nepal to Karakoram is covered by one sketch-map of Changabang, the peak climbed by the author. Thus Paui Bauer’s attempts on Kangchenjunga from Sikkim by the northeast spur is taken up, but not the completion of the route in 1977 by the Indians. The 1979 British route by the north face gets a mention.

Considering the style and, as a major event for the development of attitudes, small teams and smaller, independent climbs, deserved a passing mention at least. The achievements of Shipton and Tilman still attract many. Stephen Venables’ climb of Kishtwar-Shivling with Dick Renshaw and even Bonington’s own ascent of Shivling West with Jim Fotheringham, were trend-setters, and this brand of climbing should be emphasised. That would be really looking into the future.

But then these are only small personal observations and do not detract from the merit and enjoyment of the book. To write ‘the’ history of mountaineering some one would have to fill half a dozen volumes and the author would still not be able to include everything.

The history of climbing is wonderfully rich — it is not so much a matter of hanging on to the tradition and distrusting new developments, for these must occur as they do in all forms of human development.

Bonington, even at his age and with his experience, refuses to be ‘pickled’ and looks forward to the future with an open mind and welcomes change. I am sure readers will look forward to many more books from Bonington in future.

Harish Kapadia