Nanda Devi the Tragic Expedition

NANDA DEVI. The Tragic Expedition. By John Roskelley. Pp. 240, 71 illustrations, 2 maps, 1987. (Stackpole Books, Harris-burg, U.S.A., $ 16,95).

Sometimes I have this habit of first reading the last paragraph of a book. It often sets the mood. It startled me in this case.

‘Those of us who are still alive are not friends so much as fel¬low prisoners of the same memories. The passage of time has eased the tension, but our eyes don’t meet and our conversation is hurried and short. What happened on Nanda Devi could have happened to any group of people. But it happened to us; it was our tragedy and not one of us can explain why. Mountain clim¬bers are usually so reserved, so exact. No one of us expected our differences of opinion to lead to death.’ (p. 239)

What unhappy turn of events could have led the author to harbour such bitterness? We all know that Nanda Devi Unsoeld died on the mountain. But what were the events that led to it? There were so many and all unhappy interpersonal differences.

‘Recalling the expedition to the “Goddess of Joy” is still painful. For me: What joy is there in death? In laying bare others’ weak¬nesses? In the frailty of our wisdom? There is none.’ (p. 239)

In 1975, a brief letter formed the climbing team of Lou Reichardt and John Roskelley. Willi Unsoeld and Ad Carter are joint leaders, with all the confusions of command that a joint-leadership can create. Selecting other members creates tension. Nanda Devi is the obvious choice. But Andy Harvard had ‘broken up with a woman he was quite fond of and didn’t have his equilibrium back yet.’ He fell in love with Nanda Devi on this trip and was, engaged to be married to her during the expedition.

But the first troubles began with the selection of Marty Hoey, who was living with another member Peter Lev. Roskelley and the climbers objected to her coming, not only due to the inexperience but also because of the relationship, which can come in the way of climbing. But Willi came in with a typical American solution.
‘ “Let’s use the Nanda Devi Expedition to show that (unmarried) men and women can do this sort of thing together without pro¬blems.”
Suddenly aware that I was standing in the way of a great Ame¬rican experiment, I grudgingly conceded.’ (p. 16)

Later Roskelley met Marty to be informed by her:

‘ “Well, John, I’m trying to break up with him (Peter) slowly right now so as not to hurt him. I want to be back on my own.”

My worst fears were now reality. I couldn’t help remembering Peter’s assurance that he and Marty were “inseparable”. Peter was in love and this was going to devastate him to the point of being useless on the expedition. I hoped that Marty would let him down easy.’ (p. 18)

So much for the great American experiment!

Even before starting, the climbers had no faith in the leadership, what to take and how to go about it. According to them the leaders underestimated the food and equipment. And so while packing, telephone calls would take Ad away from the basement. Imme¬diately extra food would be stuffed in and the boxes packed per-manently.

The first open conflict came at Dibrugheta, a lovely glen en route. Marty was ill and Dr Jim advised evacuation. Willi faltered and after it was pointed out that there was danger to her life, he reluc¬tantly agreed to an evacuation. This had a bearing on the ulti¬mate tragedy. Dr Jim constantly advised Nanda Devi Unsoeld against going higher up. But Willi could not decide or forcefully enforce a decision. One of the major contributory reasons for her death — a harsh but true thing to say about the leader-father.

During the approach or on the mountains one regular refrain strikes the reader. The team is busy amongst themselves. They have nothing to do with, the beauty of Nanda Devi, great unique¬ness of the Sanctuary or a sunset. They are busy fending against each other, reading Time magazine ‘cover to cover, three or four times’, eating ice-creams, physically rolling down one another and generally competing with each other.

The route, on the northeast ridge of Nanda Devi is great climb¬ing. Lou, Jim and John reach the summit. The descriptions are quite boring when they are not quarreling as usual:

‘ “O.K., you guys,” I growled.
“Yeah”, Peter added.
“Wow, what a place”, John cried,’ or ‘ “Sounds great, guys” yelled Lou.’
Things like history, geography, nature or love for the moun¬tains are outdated with the Americans.
Ad leaves early and John Evans joins later and is sick. Despite the clear warnings by Roskelley and Dr Jim, Nanda Devi goes up to the last camp. The doctor warned her about his concern. But he had to do it democratically!
‘”Willi I only advised her to come down,” Jim said, “J didn’t order her”.
“I’m glad you left it that way,” Willi replied’.

One cries for a strong leader and father. But that wouldn’t fit in with the competitive spirit, belief in American greatness and so called concept of freedom. Nanda Devi died in the presence of her father and her lover and her body was rolled down the mountain.

One questions the uselessness of the death. Even as an Indian, I am not inclined to believe the blurb of ‘She was pulled towards the peak or Goddess gone back to her throne’ stuff. It was a simple case of not heeding any danger signs. And if at all it had any¬thing to do with the supernatural, it could be the simple wrath of the Goddess against such foolhardiness, And as an Indian I might believe this! The expedition took place 12 years ago (1976), but the story sounds as interesting as ever. It is a very honest book about all the bickering. After reading differences on the Ameri¬can expeditions to K2 {In Throne Room of Gods and The Last Step) my friend stopped going on large expeditions with strong leader¬ship. With this, he would stop going on any expedition at ail-But hopefully this is an exception, not the rule.

Every team performs as per their characteristics. The Germans were thorough on their Nanga Parbat ventures, the British gave that great spirit and gentlemanliness to the sport, the Indians and Sherpas love and worship the mountains, while the Japanese, amidst their plenty, display great tenacity. Here perhaps we are told of the ailments: of competitiveness, of impersonal relation¬ships, of tenacity which kills, and above all, of the lack of respect for the mountains. But kudos for telling such a tale truthfully, even after so many years. This is also mountaineering.

HARISH KAPADIA