Mountaineer- Chris Bonington

MOUNTAINEER. Thirty years of climbing on the world’s great peaks. By Chris Bonington. Pp. 192, 422 colour illustrations, 1989. (Oadem-Hodder and Stoughton, London, £ 17.95).

Perhaps I should not be reviewing this book, for-1 am a confirmed admirer of the author, having followed his expeditions closely, sometimes ‘brushed’ with it. Ian Clough spent a long week with us at Bombay in 1970 on his way to the Annapurna South Face, or meeting Bonington and Fotheringham on their way to Shivling Southwest in 1983 or following little behind his expedition to Changabang in 1974. All these memories come alive with the magnificent pictures in this book.

Apart from this, one has always read about the pioneering efforts of climbing the South Face of Annapurna I, Southwest Face of Everest, Bonington’s own personal climbs, accidents and tragedies on his expeditions. All these complete a great ‘mountaineer’ and much more.

This is a strong visual book telling you about: ‘The sheer scale and majesty of the surroundings in which the adventures have taken place….’. (p. 7). It gives you a complete visual treat about all his climbs and companions. There were many personalities involved in these expeditions, many sadly died on his expeditions. Bonington accepts this as a matter of fact. ‘ I have to accept the fact that a high proportion of the expeditions I have led have had casualties. It’s a burden I do not bear lightly and yet it is one that I can accept, since the risks involved were something that the entire team accepted in their desire to achieve success on the mountain.’ (p. 100). But at the same time there is sadness. Each who has died is paid a visual tribute.

There are very few persons who have actively climbed for three decades. Hence this book portrays the different attitudes that have prevailed over the years. The early historic climbs in the Alps, seige tactics, introduction of the big wall climbing in the Himalaya, small climbs and tackling a mountain the hard way. In all these developments, Bonington has played no mean role.

For such a variety of climbs of different styles, he has attracted climbers of different temperament and handled them well. This is the credit very few leaders can take. Bonington had the advantage that he was also a climber. ‘My effectiveness as leader was helped by the fact that I was climbing at around the same standard as my peers. It is hard for a leader to run an expedition from the Base Camp…..the best position for the leader of a large expedition is at the camp immediately below that of the lead climbers.’ (p. 99)

In between the large expeditions Bonington snatches climbs on small peaks, in a small team: ‘Quite apart from the satisfaction of reaching virgin summits, you can actually enjoy yourself, (p. 126) It is with these small teams that he enjoyed best in the later years of life. It brings out the sensitive climber in him: ‘The small team that is compatible.

that each of its member is equally self “reliant and yet prepared to support the others if necessary, has natural strength of its own. Its very isolation on mountains far from any external help increases the sense of self-sufficiency and makes the experience more profound.’ (p. 129).

After the early years he decided to live on climbing, writing, adventure -journalism, photo-journalism, and lecturing. He is successful at this, like his climbs, and it portrays the determination and devotion. And make no mistakes, Bonington has had his critics, who sometimes almost ridiculed him, and there was opposition. In fact this makes the man complete You may not agree with him, you may criticise him, hate his guts but you cannot deny the greatness due to him.

With all the experiences, finally still there is Everest which he climbed at the age of 50 years : ‘Almost every climber, I suspect, dreams in his heart of hearts of standing on the summit of Everest’, (p. 188) But it is the humility that is resonant after the climb of Everest. And for from being satisfied he looks ahead : ‘There is still much to be done. Mountaineering in all its forms sustains a deep and satisfying challenge which, for me, is as fresh today as when I started, over thirty years ago (p. 189).

Not many would be as hungry for the mountains after three decades of climbing, achievements and laurels. But perhaps the experience of this nature draws someone like him, more to the mountains — almost like an addiction. What he has experienced is evident from the excellent pictures (kudos to Hodder and Stoughton!). After going through this book you are drawn to know more about Bonington, the climber, the man, to read his books and to share his experiences. One can almost say about this book what the bard said for Cleopatra : ‘She satisfies most where she creates hunger.’

Harish Kapadia