Kongur – Elusive Summit

KONGUR, CHINA’S ELUSIVE SUMMIT. By Chris Bonington. Pp. 224, 143 illustrations, 11 maps, 1982. (Hodder and Stoughton, London, £9.95)

Central Asia, the name conjures up the memories of sandy plains, Silk Road, forbidden cities and of course mountains. But these faraway ranges were as if always meant for history books. The area was last visited and documented by Shipton in 1940. Since then it was the scene of political upheaval and closed. Hence this book describing the first ascent of the highest peak in Central Asia, Kongur, is the most important contribution to mountain literature.

It was Michael Ward who as Chairman of Mount Everest Founda¬tion made approaches to the Chinese in 1972. After a variety of approaches for 8 years, Ward and Bonington flew to Peking to sign a protocol, for a reconnaissance and finally the ascent in 1981. It is a tale simply told and makes interesting reading. Life in modern China, Kashgar, Urumchi and other small Central Asian villages are described. The route is clearly indicated by excellent maps at regular intervals. The expedition proceeded by air, lorry, on double-humped camels, yaks and even on a donkey. From the base camp at Koksel glacier they investigated all the approaches, climbed a number of peaks and finally made the first ascent of Kongur.

Chris Bonington describes all the happenings precisely and with a sense of self-involvement. He makes no pretensions to hide his own weakness or differences among the team. However he is tactful when writing about Chinese and complimentary when mentioning repeatedly about their sponsors. But perhaps he had his eyes set on Everest NE ridge 1982 from the Chinese side with the same sponsors.

Apart from climbing, a team of 4 scientists carried out an exten¬sive research programme. They carried enormous equipment to do the same. Their study of excersise oedema, started at home and carried on on the trip, contributed a most original study to the high-altitude medical literature. The fact that there was no conflict between the climbing aim and scientific studies speaks of good camaraderie that existed. All along the text, Bonington considers various issues. About the age difference between him and Al Rouse, he writes:

‘The age difference between Al and myself was eighteen years, I was the same age as his mother, and yet there seemed very little generation gap between us. Part of the reason might well have been a lack of maturity on my part. I don’t think I’ve ever really grown up. I love playing games, of which climbing is one His climb¬ing is much better, I suspect, than mine has ever been, but that didn’t matter.’

Climbers’ irritations, their reactions and fears are brought out by quotations from diaries. With their deaths on Everest later on, participation of Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman gains an added importance.

The climbers consider the issue of ‘alpine style’ climbing quite often. Chris from the older school while Alfrom the modern thought lead the differences. Though Chris respects the modern views he clearly feels that many a high peak still requires siege techniques. Final word is said by Joe.

I think that’s a load of shit,’ replied Joe. ‘You can get the train up to Grindelwald. Is it alpine style if you use the train or tele-ferique?

I just don’t feel it’s satisfactory for other people to carry my gear, that’s all.’ (Al).

‘Well if I’ve put a lot of effort into climbing a mountain I don’t feel unsatisfactory at all.’

The present expedition was far from alpine-style (as claimed in brochure) with beer crates, regular meat on the hoof and high-altitude assistants. And to celebrate success the sponsors sent a crate of champagne at base camp. Some (alpine) style indeed on Bam-i-Duniya!

The book has exhaustive appendices covering history, medical science, fauna and flora, geology, equipment and even on Buzkashi. Photographs are excellent and get up superb value for money.

HARISH KAPADIA