Night of Generals and Shopping Lady and other stories

Night of Generals and Shopping Lady
The night of the Generals was great in Leh. A Punjabi General, who heads this outfit, made some relevant points. Why we are so sentimental about the Siachen glacier, about cleaning it up and peace on it. There is so much conflict in other areas in India, on many borders, and the whole of India is far more dirty than the glacier. Computer dumps, garbage, industrial waste, nuclear waste and much more. So, if we have enthusiasm and money to clean environment, start with others first and then come to this small piece of land in India- totally 76 kilometres! What do you say to that? His fundamentals were clear. He said, we are an army to protect and fight and are doing everything possible to clean up under the firing. But our job is different and if I have orders I will work but I am not the one to give that orders!

General Vombetkairi and Brig Amin Naik were present.
General Brar’s wife, a Sardarni (Sikh lady) was great fun after a drink or two.
” I went to a shop in Leh to buy Gem stones. A young person sitting there showed me a great stone and quoted Rs 500. So, I said give me your word, (Jaban) that I can take this tomorrow at this price. I am the General’s wife. The person gave Jaban. Next day as she went to the shop, an older chap, true owner was sitting there. When she said the price and that Jaban was given, he agreed to give it for Rs 500. The guy who quoted you is my damat, Son in Law, and he has this habit of quoting 10% of actual price everywhere. This stone costs Rs 5000! He gave her the gem and said that when leaving Leh if you want it to sell it back I will take it for Rs 1000 provided you take my Damat alongwith you! Moral of the story: never keep Ghar Jamai (Son in law at home) as Indian saying goes.

I bet Mrs Brar threw out her son – in – Law, if he was a Ghar Jamai!

Arunachal Three Valleys
I have now seen three valleys in Arunachal Pradesh- three river valleys which flow into India from Tibet. One more remains for the next year.
The western-most was Kameng rivers with Namka Chu coming in from Tibet. I found this valley complicated, many criss-cross rivers and wild terrain and with intervening ridges. Not a smooth valley. But it was here that Dalai Lama entered India and in 1962 Chinese attacked India and massacred many. Is it due to that I feel this? Mind Games?

Then there was Tsangpo- Brahmaputra. It falls steeply from the Tibetan Plateau and flows very fast into India. It appeared terrifying, mysterious and something you have to be scared of. Is it mind games again? As this river has had a long history of exploration and mystery which took long to solve.
Then this year, for the first time I visited the Tsari Chu river, which issues from the Crystal mountain -Takpa Shiri. It appeared gentle, serene and wonderfully clear. It felt peaceful to sit next to it. On the other side flow two rivers- Yume Chu and the Subansiri (the hidden river). Yume Chu is where the Takpa Shiri kora (round) ends. There is a huge Gompa there – now in China and it appeared again very serene. The Subansiri flows from further west and is dirty. It comes from a large military Garrison town of Chayul in China. The Subansiri takes in Yume Chu early, then eats up Tsari Chu and is ultimately herself eaten up by the Brahmaputra or The Tsangpo. Kameng also flows into the Brahmaputra.

Does it mean that holy rivers or holiness gets into muddy waters (Subansiri) and it washed down by the force of God? (Fast Tsangpo?) And the bloody waters of Kameng (which saw much fighting and slaughters of the Indian soldiers) is purified by the force of Tsangpo- the Brahmaputra? Thus, is it a force which takes in all the dirt, blood and even holy spirit?

Or is it my mind just playing games with my knowledge of the area and its history?

Harkot-Chiltha with Fotheringham
I met the party of Chris and others at Delhi., I had gone on this trip for Chris and Jim Fotheringham. Jim is a Buddhist in the real sense and even converted. He does regular meditation and is very understanding and an old friend. He is the easiest person to get on with but divorced twice and now married again. His daughter was there with us.

As we travelled and climbed up to Harkot village, the village of Harsinh, two dancers came half way down with Bagpipes playing!!! They were dancers with swords and doing traditional dances, and they made a great show as we walked behind them. In the middle of the village, they had put up a large banner in English stating ‘WELCOME HIMALAYAN KINGS –CHRIS BONINGTON AND HARISH KAPADIA “! Then with fanfare Harsinh Jr., garlanded Chris and Sr. Harsinh garlanded me. Both were wearing a suit and tie, which they had made for Sonam’s wedding.

That night we camped there. The village organised a great dance party; from small school children to ultimately adults, dancing. The British also gave a befitting reply with Scottish dances and songs. Then we were all invited to a Kumauni group dance where we went around in circles and then we had a Scottish circle dance – quite complicated. Finally, I persuaded our Sherpa and Ladakhi crew to sing the famous old Nepali song: Resham ri ri ri where we all danced fast. I knew this song so I was the lead vocalist – very much in tune and rhythm!!! The memorable night ended with a drink and dinner.

Then we walked up together to the Dhakuri Pass with the full team, all the time talking to Chris and Jim. At the pass we bifurcated and four of us : Jim., Tanil Kilachand, Neil and myself, went to Chiltha Devi. We had some grand views – as Marco Pallis has written; “In face of such eloquent beauty, the only reply is – silence!!!”

Then we walked on this ridge the next two days, staying on the meadows, with great views of all the peaks. Descending to the village Supi, we met one drug trafficker David Alexander Whitestock, from Australia. He stays here for now, for the last 10 years (on and off) and distributes much money. But, he distinctly looked incoherent and confused. He had heard my name so he sat down and shook hands until we walked out. Such is life, as in papers a day later we read that a person from Supi village was sentenced to 10 years imprisonment for dealing in drugs! Bosses never get caught!

Then we were back to Khali Estate for a day – where one can be introduced to the Himalaya in great comfort. I have stayed there many times over last 20 years and last time Geeta and I had stayed for 15 days to write my Siachen book.

Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrrer passed away today. He was the person who tutored Dalai Lama in Tibet during 1940s. He had visited Mumbai once only as far as I recall. It was in 1975 for the premier of that horrible film Ishq Ishq Ishq that he was here. I was asked to look after him and as I was on crutches at that time it made a good sight! He came with only a tooth-brush from Europe. He said he sleeps naked at night and washes clothes every other day and wears them again. Shaves from the hotel kit!. He was full of ideas and no sooner he asked me whether I will be on crutches life-long or be fit soon. When I said I will be ready soon, he came out with many ideas and suggestions. We had many long chats as the filmwalas had no time for him and I was talking to a hero.

Ian Clough
For Bonington’s Annapurna South face, equipment arrived at Mumbai port by sea. Temperamental Don Whillans, their member, was in Mumbai to clear it through customs. Not able to deal with customs here, he slapped one officer, we rescued him but the goods were never to be cleared by them as revenge.
So, he left for Nepal and Ian Clough, another member was sent to clear the customs. He was diplomatic and charming and we slowly warmed our way through customs by the usual money way. As this was done, we made many rock climbing trips to Kanheri Caves and learnt a lot from him. We planned an expedition to Nanda Devi Sanctuary, to be done in the next two years with him. Even a baby sitter was listed for their child to be left in Mumbai as Nicki, his wife was also a climber.

He left for Nepal and worked hard. On the Annapurna, after the successful climb, the team returned on the snow slopes. The last three with Ian were returning. A huge Ice block, under which the whole expedition had for last month had crossed regularly, collapsed on him. A doctor was next to him, but he died instantly. Nicki was in Manali and was informed.

Nicki refused to remarry and died of Cancer in the next 5 years. End of an era. He was a close friend of Chris.

Everest House at Mussoorie
The highlight of it all. Above Mussoorie is the house of Sir George Everest, where he lived and worked from. It was in ruins, but we had Bill Aitken to go with all juicy stories about it. It seems, or it is known that he was fond of women, both black and white, and had Bibikhana, a harem next to his office! When the Survey of India came to know of it through an article by Bill Aitken 20 years ago, they promptly broke down the building. But many things remain— oh not those things!!! Only remains of the wall!!! And he has left many off-springs — may be the serious beginning of an Anglo-Indian community.

Of memories and names and Language
There is a point in not remembering names but the substance. But some take it to extremes and have a memory lapse too. Ashwin Popat, our Sopari Seth, would say about a trek: “remember where we went trekking, that place with K……..”

I will say Kenjalgad.
“Han that’s the place”. This happens for every name.
So, we talk about him saying :” Remember my wife, who is she, that name with S…… “

Shankuntla.
“Han that’s the name”!!!!
In a way something is lost if name is lost.