Charlie Houston and other stories

INVECTUS and Charlie Houston
INVECTUS was a favourite poem of Nelson Mandela. It was this book of poems that Dr Charlie Huston had carried in his rucksack when he went to K2 in 1938. They stopped at Zozi la pass and he had read the poem aloud to his friends and team members. When we crossed that pass in 2008, his friend Dr Tom Hornbein carried the same book and read the same poem aloud! I was happy to be sharing that touching moment! In fact, we had talked to Charlie a day earlier- sadly the last time I talked to him. A day after our reading his favourite poem at Zozi la, he passed away.

Invictus
Out of the night that covers me,
Black as the Pit from pole to pole,
I thank whatever gods may be
For my unconquerable soul.

In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.

Beyond this place of wrath and tears
Looms but the Horror of the shade,
And yet the menace of the years
Finds, and shall find, me unafraid.

It matters not how strait the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll.
I am the master of my fate:
I am the captain of my soul.
William Ernest Henley

French Artist at Phirtse La
We trekked in Zanskar, with Muslim and Sabina and my wife Geeta- in 1990. On the way to Phirtse La, we met a French Painter couple and their young son. We sat down, had tea made by Harsingh and chatted for a long time. And then we went our opposite ways. I wrote a lighter article on this trip where I mentioned his name that meeting the French artist Daon and family was great honour and that we discussed French art in the middle of Zanskar. Nothing happened for many decades as the French artist did not read my article. Later some other art lover read my book and read the name of ‘Daon’, and informed him about it!!! I soon had an e mail from his young son, now married and with twins! His father does not like to write e mails. So, he wrote me a long letter.

JOSS LYNAM
Perhaps it is not too well known that Joss Lynam, the legendary Irish Mountaineer passed away in last few years. He undertook several climbs and explorations in the Indian Himalaya. His explorations of the Gyundi valley, and Kullu-Lahaul Divide are well recorded and not often repeated. At the age of 66, he climbed Jaonli, 6600 m in height! Such was his spirit that later in his life, with hip replacements, broken knees and little bent over- he continued rock climbing and enjoying the hills.

He was the member of several committees on UIAA and travelled to India and Nepal often. He was a senior member of the Himalayan Club and I hope younger members should know of him.

After one of the trips to India, his climbing friend had strong differences with him. As he lectured to a wide audience about this trip, his rebel friend sat in front of the audience with his back towards the speaker in protest! Joss used to joke about this: ‘This is like climbing Everest backwards – only thing left to do on this peak!”
Rest-In-Peace

Legend of Gorkha kyul
Nepal is the country next to the Indian Himalayan state of Kumaun. For centuries, both these areas were at logger-heads. Divided by the Kali river, that can be crossed, the Nepalese led by Gorkha soldiers, crossed into Kumaun and conquered many areas. Nepal was ruled by Ranas and they controlled the Gorkha invasion, as it came to be known.

One of the areas that Gorkhas could not conquer easily was the Milam valley, also known as the Johar area. These hardy people, called Milamwals, traded with Tibet and had a tradition of fighting the bandits in Tibet or when they invaded the Milam valley from Tibet. Thus, they were successful in fending off several attacks by the Gorkhas. In one of the earliest attacks, the Raja’s son was killed and the army was without a leader.

The Raja of Milam did not have a second son and he himself was too old to take up arms. It was the tradition that only son (a male) can lead the army and the Gorkhas also respected only male warriors. It was thought that women will not be able to hold the army together, cannot fight and the area under them can be taken over easily. The only daughter, the Princess, of the Raja was strong and pretty. She decided that she will take up arms and fight the Gorkhas. Because of the tradition, she had to dress as a male warrior. She cut her hair short, wore a turban, painted a moustache on her face and carried a sword. She for all purposes looked like a male warrior. She started leading the army to defend against the attacks of the Gorkhas.

Once the Gorkhas came in large numbers. The Milamwals (people of Milam valley) had far less numbers to defend the area. The Princess decided on a trick. She with her supporters erected many thin stones vertically on slanting mountain ridge. These stones were placed in such a way that it gave an appearance of many soldiers standing on that ridge. Against the sun it looked as if a large army was standing there. The Gorkhas were terrified and thought that the Milamwals have a large contingent and hence did not attack.

Now the Gorkhas were desperate to capture Milam and they thought that until the Princess (dressed a man – so called a Prince by them) was captured or killed this area cannot be won over. They tried many tricks but failed. They kept a strict watch over the movements of the ‘Prince’ and how he moved and where he went. He was constantly under observation.

One fine morning the Princess woke up and went to the river to wash her face and get ready for the battle. She bent down and took water with her both hands and splashed on her face. She did this many times, every time gathering water with both hands and splashed on her face to wash. It was a long and well-known tradition in the hills that only women wash their face or drink water by joining both hands. A man or a boy would always take water in one hand and splash it on face or drink. The Gorkha sentry who was watching her washing, immediately shouted that what they thought was a ‘Prince’ was actually a lady. Knowing this, they attacked immediately and the Princess being exposed as such was nervous and could not defend the village. She and others were killed in battle and the Gorkhas captured the Milam valley.

Even today, after centuries people narrate this legend and in the centre of the Milam village stands a strong stone house. It is built with many huge stones and is very large. This was the residence built for defending the Princess. It is known as the ‘Gorkha Kyul’ – the stone house against the Gorkhas. The legend of the Princess is also called the “Legend of Gorkha Kyul”.

Legend of Madho Singh Rawat
In the remote eastern valley of the Himalaya in Kumaun, live hardy people. This area is known as Johar, meaning people who reap their crop in autumn season, later than most who undertake this in summers. The reason is that people of this valley are traders. In summer as the snow melts from the higher passes, they will pack their goods of wool, food grains and local produce on mules. The long mule caravan will slowly wind its way up the Milam valley. They have to face harsh terrain and steep climbs. Many mules die on the way. Their food is simple rotis and little meat. They cross the high Unta Dhura (pass) to descend on to a high plateau near the Tibetan border. Spending a night in this cold and windy terrain, they start early next day and cross Jainti Dhura pass into Tibet.

Tibet is a vast and windy plateau. In about two days of travel they reach the market set up by Tibetans to barter goods with the Indian traders. There were many markets set up like the one at Gartok. These markets are temporary and are housed in huge Tibetan tents. Like the traders from India, the Tibetans have also carried their goods on strong and sturdy Yaks. They have travelled from far distances to trade their salt, gold and meat- all three products for which Tibet is known. The Tibetan rock salt is most nutritious and is best to feed to mules and animals in the Indian valleys. It makes them strong and live longer. For humans also, this salt is considered healthy containing many ‘salts’ that body requires.

Many times, these caravans will spend lot of time at the Gartok mandi (market). Some traders will go on a pilgrimage to Tirthapuri or Kailash. There were many small Tibetan villages where they can stay. As the autumn approaches it is time to return to the lower valleys of Milam and India. The traders pack up their wares, count their profits and with a cargo of Tibetan goods start their journey home. Again, they cross the high Jainti Dhura pass to descend to the high plateau before crossing the Unta Dhura to lower valleys.

It was here, between Jainti Dhura and Unta Dhura passes, that many caravans suffered badly. Many animals and people died in case there was a storm or sudden gusts of strong winds. There was no food available here and no shelter was possible. Sometimes, the storms lasted few days and without fodder mules would perish leaving behind a large load of cargo One villager named Madho Singh Rawat had been a trader on this route for many years. When he grew old he decided that his people must be saved in between these two passes. Selflessly, he built a good shelter of stones on this plateau. No big stones were available so he had to ferry them on mules over a full year. Single–handedly, he constructed the shelter. Then he stored grains, food and lots of tea for the travellers. He carried clothes, blankets and plenty of firewood to keep stranded travellers warm. By this free and selfless service, he saved the lives of many traders trapped on this plateau. Many animals were saved and soon Madho Singh became a legend, both in Johar and Tibet. People came to know of his service in far-away lands.

Even after he passed away, this tradition continued and some other persons from the village would stock up the kothi (stone hut) and serve others. All caravans climbing up from the valley would sing praise of Madho Singh Rawat.

If we stop, we stand rooted like great mountains,
If we walk, we sail through life,
We remember you at each step,
And in doing so, make you immortal.
Madho Singh and his legend is still alive today as children continue to sing this traditional song. Selfless service has made him immortal.